ACHILL ISLAND AND MORE WILD ATLANTIC WAY TRAVELS

Previous Day link here.

Good breakfast next morning at the Old Castle B&B thought porridge was once again, a let down. But good smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and soda bread which I spread with lashings of local honey. No wonder we rarely felt like much for lunch!

Overnight, the mist had really settled low over the hills and it was raining,  so we drove off without any of the fine views we’d enjoyed yesterday. I had wanted to show Simone a bit more of the beautiful Renvyle and Glassilaun beaches but there was a sea fret too, robbing the scene of the lovely mountain backdrop. Given we planned to hike Croagh Patrick, this was due to be quite a busy day so decided just to drive on and forego a walk on the beach(which I don’t mind in the rain if geared up for it.)

First brief stop was Kylemore Abbey which we’d planned just to have a look at from the outside at least as I thought Simone should see it.

It’s in a very lovely location but Simone casts quite a hard eye on architecture and she wasn’t drawn to it. I know it’s not that old and the interior doesn’t get a great write up, but I think it looks beautiful. I had a real notion to go in and see the grounds, even in the drizzle.However, we were on a schedule like a military campaign😂 so after a quick wander along to the entrance gate and me looking longingly at the whole place, we headed back to the car. I really do love that spot – rain , hail or shine.In fact, it was looking very atmospheric in the mizzle.The sign of a truly lovely place is that even poor weather doesn’t spoil it!

It was a nice drive through Leenaun and round the coast with the cloud trying to lift but not quite managing…

We had been looking forward to the drive through the lonely Doolough Valley and although perhaps we didn’t see it at its best, it still looked to me very lovely, almost ethereal.Sometimes poor weather makes for a more interesting shot.

Stopped at the small town of Louisburgh, a neat wee place and had excellent tea and cake in the charming Tia Café on the Main Street. Lovely Pear and Pistachio Cake for me, good strong tea and excellent coffee for Simone.I felt as if we were the only people in the whole town, it was eerily quiet though I expect that was just the rain keeping people indoors.

Croagh Patrick No More

The forecast was really dismal for Croagh Patrick so we weren’t surprised to arrive at the visitor centre at Murrisk and find the mountain totally invisible above us. Oh what a blow- I’d been so looking forward to this! I’d appreciated the fact that Simone had agreed to the climb but only on the basis that the weather was decent enough to enjoy it. I might have given it a go on my own , if on a solo trip, but there was no way Simone would have wanted to go up. That said, I also like views for my efforts and we weren’t going to get them today.We had a brief look about in the car park, willing the low cloud to lift but the forecast suggested that was unlikely.

I was keen to see the National Famine Memorial which was across the road from the car park.So much modern sculpture is, to me, quite poor but this was impressive and very evocative.In the rigging of the sailing ship are the figures of skeletons, representing those who sailed in the so-called Coffin Ships, desperately seeking a better life.The ships were so overcrowded and dirty that many died during the voyage.Though not experiencing the terrible widespread famine that Ireland suffered, Scotland ‘s Highland Clearances saw people were thrown off the land and their homes burnt to the ground. This also resulted in many thousands of people leaving on emigrant boats to the New World to escape extreme poverty and ruthless landowners.Many died due to the conditions on board.

Reluctantly, we drove on and arrived in Westport, County Mayo which really was a lovely place.Got parked by the river quite easily and headed off for a stroll. It was a handy stop too, allowing us to pick up more supplies plus I managed to source a new charging cable for my phone which had packed in (the cable that is.) I am obsessed with being in touch with the family at all times, plus it’s good fun to send them photos each night (well, it is for me…no doubt everyone gets a bit weary of these countless images 😀)

Enjoyed our walk around this nice, very bustling town but Achill Island called.

As we drove round to Mallaranny, the sun began to reassert itself and our spirits soared. Stopped at a nice quiet spot overlooking a rocky shore and had some fruit and chocolate , enjoying the view over island-dotted Clew Bay. Directly opposite rose Croagh Patrick and I was sort of dreading it clearing up but it remained wrapped in cloud from quite low down.I admit to being relieved about that! It would have been a cruel blow otherwise although I was also working out in my head if we could have simply driven back to it this afternoon and set off late or even considered it tomorrow if the weather cleared. Turned out, Simone was thinking the same! I really appreciated her being willing to do the hike as she is not hill fit as such and she had worried that she wouldn’t make the summit.But we’d chatted often about it and I suggested she simply see how far she got and forget any pressure to reach the top.The agreement was, I’d push on to the summit if that happened and we’d simply meet up at the bottom, or wherever she decided to stop for a rest.My feeling is, she is one very determined lady and I think she’d have made it fine.

After our wee break, a really lovely drive followed along a bit of coast I was really taken with immediately – the southern section of the Currane Peninsula.We weren’t on Achill yet but this was quite a wow with great flat slabs pounded by the ocean , creating a very wild, elemental shore below the moorland. Beautiful! Clare Island sat on the horizon, still hazy.No habitation as far as the eye could see, just the beautifully sweeping road.

Got out for a wander and spied several fishermen in quite precarious looking spots on the slabs; you’d have to know what you were about down there.

Onwards we drove and soon we were crossing the bridge to Achill Island itself.We’d arrived!

First stop was Keel Beach, a huge expanse of gravelly/pebble beach lashed by big surf. Impressive it was too with the sun shining dramatically on a cliff girt backdrop.Unfortunately, the beach area was rather spoiled by an enormous caravan site and a smattering of holiday advertising boards and activity huts/buildings. Perhaps this struck me given we’d just enjoyed a very unspoiled peninsula so the contrast was more marked.

In fact, it was something we both remarked on, just how populated Achill Island was.Shouldn’t have been so surprised as the Lonely Planet Guidebook had mentioned this.

Onwards we drove to check out Keem Bay, where we planned a walk tomorrow. A truly dramatic road to get there, especially at the high point.Quite a spot!

No time to stop today, it was more just checking out the route and parking for tomorrow.We headed back to the north of the island and the tiny village of Doogort where we both agreed lay the island’s most beautiful beach. Aptly named Silver Beach because of the pale sand, it had a sharp peaked mountain backdrop (Slievemore), wreathed in swirling mist and giving it a real wow quality. Suitably impressed, we got out for a stroll. Gorgeous spot.The views from the mountain itself must be stunning.In peak season there must be caravans behind the beach but the site was empty today.

It was a pleasant drive round to The Valley Hostel where we were booked in for 2 nights.

Oh dear, not a good first impression of the place and my heart sank.(It wasn’t cheap either!) Untidy, scruffy grounds and it was such a really gloomy big place inside.The kitchen was awful, with dirty fridges and work surfaces , a bin which was stinking to high heaven and a sink full of unwashed dishes.Depressing to be here two nights but it was all we could find on Achill. In fact, we did discover that the island’s main visitor season is short and in mid-May, we were actually there ‘off season’ hence a lot of much nicer accommodation just wasn’t open yet or was not listed on booking.com or Airbnb.

Thankfully however, our twin room was clean and pleasant enough though toilet and shower facilities were a walk down the hallway.But they were solely for our use, accessed via a code. As I’m always up at least once during the night, I much prefer en suite these days but it all worked out fine.

Hunger had caught up with us and it had been a long time since breakfast! Headed out to Gielty’s Bar at 6pm, ready for a good feed. So many places on the island were up for sale or closed – all suffering after Covid , we were told and unable to get staff. Quite worrying for the island, I thought.Gielty’s was our only option.

Sat outside as the sun had come out and we both ordered a Chicken Caesar Salad. It was drowned in dried Parmesan but it tasted a lot better than it looked with a good strong garlicky/anchovy dressing and lots of chicken(cunningly disguised under the mountain of cheese.) Enjoyed our meal very much , with nice staff serving.

Drove back via the beaches again and caught some lovely light on Silver Beach.Simone was keen to get out to another strand called Golden, a 5 min drive further on, just for a seat and to have a vape and a glass of wine. This was a lovely spot too though not quite up to Silver beach’s standard but enjoyed a long walk there by the crashing surf with little Sanderlings scurrying about. Nice spot and a beautiful sunset.There was quite a large caravan park behind the beach but it was almost deserted.

We returned to live music in the hostel which was great though the locals were more interested in chatting and catching up with each other – it was difficult to actually hear the musicians! Ah, that’s age for you.Grumpy Old Women! I remember a similar scenario out on the Isle of Harris when one of my favourite musicians , Fergie Macdonald (known in Scotland as The Ceilidh King) was playing in a local hotel but the only people listening to him were visitors and older locals.I could hardly hear him above the general chat and laughter.The hostel manager told Simone that people hadn’t seen each other for weeks so a music evening was a chance to get out for a catch up.

Breakfast next morning was enjoyable and help-yourself. Muesli, yoghurt, fresh fruit, toast and scrambled or boiled eggs, honey.Lashings of tea.Excellent!

A woman about my age was getting breakfast too in the otherwise large empty dining room(Simone was out having a vape) and she said to me…

‘Did you knock on our door last night?’

‘Yes I did,’ I replied, not sure how the rest of the conversation was going to go!

A ‘Situation‘

There had been a ‘situation’ around half past midnight when neither Simone nor I could sleep because of the really loud talking, whooping and laughing in the room next door.It went on and on and ON.

‘What will we do?” Simone asked and so I decided to knock on the door and ask nicely if they could just keep their voices down A BIT as the walls were like paper.

First knock and I got a ‘who’s that?’ shouted at me through the door followed by ‘Go away!’

Second knock I managed to say, as pleasantly as I could…’sorry but the walls are like cardboard, can you please just talk a bit quieter as we can hear every word and we’re trying to sleep.’

Silence. Oh well, I tried.

In fact, the loud chat and general wild hilarity did calm down.

So…here were Mrs ‘Go Away’ and myself now meeting over the Muesli next morning! Actually I thought she looked nice and a good laugh, I really felt that immediately.Before I could say anything else she apologised, explaining that she and her friend had got carried away and after many evenings of crashing out at 9pm, they’d had too much to drink and gone a bit nuts last night.

’ You asked so nicely!’ she said and I thought – thank goodness I took a few deep breaths before speaking at the door because I was actually really annoyed and ready to blow! 

Anyway, for the next two mornings, we all became very chatty over breakfast.This lady was Canadian ( awful, I can’t remember her name nor that of her friend.Really nice people) and she was travelling with an Irish lady whom she had only met ONCE before! This silver haired lady had stayed at her B&B , they’d hit it off, kept in touch and now were doing a three week tour of Northern Ireland and Ireland.They were interesting ladies, big characters – I wonder how their Seaweed Bath went as that’s what they were doing the day we were leaving!

A Hike Above Keem Beach

Next morning, the skies were grey and the cloud had settled stubbornly over the mountains. Croaghaun is the highest on Achill at 687m (2,200 feet) and I had really fancied climbing it but not in this weather as the views would be non existent . Plus I really didn’t think Simone would fancy that – she was dead keen on the walk above Keem and it looked a great option to me too.

The cliffs below Croaghaun are considered the highest in Ireland (though I thought that was a title claimed by Slievemore in Donegal.)Possibly the Irish definition of cliffs is different to ours as to me, cliffs are sheer rock walls rather than as here which I’d describe as steep hillsides.Anyway – impressive, whatever you call them.

Drove to Keem again, parked easily and set off on a decent little path which took us up onto the top of the broad ridge which snaked its way up and down and out to precipitous Achill Head.

It was a terrific hike. Spooky cloud and mist came and went, giving us occasional dramatic glimpses of the crashing ocean below.Well worth doing and not difficult at all. Simone easily managed the initial few hundred metres of ascent on an obvious path and in 20 mins we were on the broad ridge itself.

That half day we spent walking the cliff top, taking in various little summits, was a real highlight of our time not just on Achill but of the whole trip.

I always feel more connected to a place when I’ve done some walking on it and the day too, feels more rewarding with a sense of achievement.

Lots more people were ascending the slopes as we descended – we’d pretty much had the whole walk to ourselves apart from a young chap from Belfast and a local girl but they hadn’t gone right out along the ridge citing the low cloud that was coming and going.

Ready for lunch now, we made for the Beehive Café in Keel , a really lovely place with some interesting things on the menu.Both of us opted for the Super Salad with quinoa, pomegranate seeds, squash, seeds, lettuce…lots of healthy things with a nice dressing.Very good indeed.

I also went for the rhubarb and apple pie but it was just ok…pastry quite soggy and that long life cream they spray all over it just isn’t appealing to me.Unlike other trips I’ve had in Ireland where the baking and puddings were first class, this trip, I found that desserts were often served with that artificial cream, bright white squishy stuff that tastes odd. Not sure why this was the case this time – I would normally rate Ireland’s cakes and puddings on a par with ours.

Browsed the lovely shop and Simone very kindly bought me a very pretty china mug as a souvenir of our great walk.

Made the short drive out to the far end of Keel Beach, a dramatic spot with great surf coming in.Just strolled above the shore, enjoying it all.

Final stop was at the Deserted Village, a long line of 80 ruined crofts, very evocative with sheep grazing in amongst the nettles and stones.Actually, it’s a very sad place to explore.

All those lives, hard lives, gone – joys, tragedies, exhaustion, pleasures….it was a beautiful spot below Slievemore and I felt moved to tears.We have so many of these deserted, ruined crofts in the Highlands and Islands – my own Great Grandparent’s croft lies in ruins on North Uist, the two room divider still visible, a half collapsed chimney. Fresh water was brought from a well a short distance away and lighting was by candle.

At the adjacent graveyard, I spoke to the guy cutting the grass and he talked about how so many places were closing on the island and how the summer season hadn’t yet got going.He pointed out St Coleman’s Well too which I’d read about and the area of graves of unbaptised and stillborn children.Too, too sad.The graves have very recently been blessed by the Catholic Church, this organisation having taken a very harsh view in the past that such children could not be buried in consecrated ground.The cruelties that applied as late as the 1950s…what pain that policy must have caused.

This was our last day on Achill Island.Tomorrow, it was time to head north for the Mullet Peninsula and Downpatrick Head.

Next day: The Mullet Peninsula and Downpatrick Head – Wild Atlantic Way continued Mayo, Sligo and terrible news

Previous Days:A RETURN TO IRELAND’S WILD ATLANTIC WAY ACHILL ISLAND AND MORE WILD ATLANTIC WAY TRAVELS The Aran Islands – INISHMOR AND DUN AONGHASA FORT