CROATIA PART 3: Istria

Days 7/8 Porec, Rovinj, Beram Church, Motovun

It was an easy, fast 75 mins or so drive from Brestova port to just outside Porec where we were staying in the lovely Castello Rausch.At one point we did come across a bit of new connecting motorway which threw our Google directions but we were soon back on track.In fact generally, driving in Croatia had been very easy with good quality roads for the most part.Few potholes, unlike the UK!

The Castello was another place which I was slightly unsure about because we normally love being by the sea with views.But somehow, what was available in Porec didn’t appeal.I research places to death pre any trip and it was Chris who finally convinced me it looked ideal, if different to what we’d normally book if visiting a seaside place.

It was simple to find but first, we did a short detour to a retail complex where we picked up wine and cold things from the supermarket. It had been a long day and knowing we had a balcony, our preference was to eat in and not have to go out again.

The property was signposted off the main road.Then we followed a longish driveway which swept by pastureland until we saw the Castello, a beautiful , very large old house in wide ranging grounds.Liked it immediately! 

Our room was on the first floor, sizeable with a sofa and chairs and- our  hostess explained- this was their ‘romantic’ room because it had a four poster.We had a fridge, handy, but it was the balcony which was the really loveliest thing with a view over the grounds.The only sound was birdsong…it was so quiet and relaxing after a busy day.

I suppose if we had stayed in town we could have wandered out for a meal but often we just enjoy our own quiet space in the evening as our days tend to be packed.

Owls hooting at night- lovely!

Next morning, breakfast was served on the lawn, tables spread very far apart so it made things feel very private.

Granola, yoghurt and fresh fruit for me, then scrambled eggs and bacon.Nice overall, though not so keen on the American style crispy streaky bacon!

Porec was our first stop, a short drive away.Got parked easily in a large metered car park on the edge of town then walked into the centre in 10 mins or so.This  was going to be a very busy day so we were out and about quite early. 

The World Heritage Site of the Euphrasian Basilica was our main reason for visiting Porec.

Just opening as we arrived, it’s the earliest complete Christian complex in the world with various buildings dating from the 6^thcentury and with the remains of even earlier buildings too.

Byzantine mosaics and decoration really made it a wow…a truly stunning place altogether.The only Byzantine decoration I’ve seen that perhaps exceeds what is on display here are the outstanding interiors of Palermo’s Cappella Palatina and Monreale.

Bishop Euphrasius had an eye for luxury hence the elaborate gold mosaics and embellishments plus his name or initials appear in various places – some in inappropriate places that were supposed to be reserved only for the saints; he had a bit of a hit for himself, that’s for sure! All fascinating stuff though .

Porec didn’t get a wildly positive write up in our guidebook , but it was much lower key and nicer than I had expected.

The hinterland is very flat and there are some big hotel developments but it was very pleasant.Swimming didn’t look quite so appealing compared to where we had been, nor could the town match the prettiness and more relaxing ambience of those on the islands.

We strolled around for a short while, along the walkway by the sea ,queued up for an interminable amount of time in a small shop to get some sparkling water, then headed for Rovinj.
Although only 45 mins away, it took longer than that and the traffic going into the town was horrendous.Car parks were pretty full by mid day but thankfully we found a space.

Saw this often photographed view of the town from the quay but we really didn’t enjoy the crowds once we began to climb up to the church.Everywhere seemed a bit grubbier too.

It was very busy at the top of town so to escape, we found a table in the gardens of a nearby café with a pleasant view over the sea.

The rest of Rovinj – which we explored from the back of the church down to another harbour area behind the main quayside- was much nicer, with lots of pastel coloured buildings.But it was heaving, super busy and we were glad to escape.

We both really do love the hot spots of the South of France and no one could call that area quiet and undeveloped but the ‘chic’, glamorous quality which exists there and to me, makes them attractive and exciting, was missing in the Istrian resorts.In fact, I’m glad that we didn’t stay in either Porec or Rovinj and settled for the quieter inland option but – horses for courses I suppose.Others might prefer the buzz and restaurant choice of these busy towns.

However…the day wasn’t over yet…

I was really keen to see Motovun, one of several ancient rural villages plus the famed St Mary’s church in Beram with its Dance of Death fresco.

Bad traffic getting out of Rovinj harbour car park but finally, we were on our way.

This would have been a fairly straightforward hour’s drive but there was a major road closure not far from Motovun and the detour was a nightmare, almost doubling that time.In fact, at several points we were ready to give up but thankfully both of us didn’t feel that way at exactly the same time! The other always said…och, let’s just keep going, we’ll get there…

In fact at one point , we were so close to Beram via the detour we decided to visit it there and then.The rain was incessant as we parked up beside the village church, only to find out quite quickly that it was the wrong one! Very fortunately, an elderly German chap and his wife had made the same mistake but had also tracked down the local lady who had the keys to St Mary’s.She was now esconsed in their campervan, ready to show the way and we were invited to follow.

Ten winding minutes later we pulled into a forest car park , waterproofs on, the rain teeming down as we hurried along the track to the old church. The German chap talked about he and his wife’s visit to Scotland during which , he said, it rained incessantly. For some reason, he repeated this same complaint to me over and over again. What on Earth was I supposed to say? My gratitude to him began to wear very thin! In fact by the end of the visit, I really could have seen the back of him.Strange behaviour…

The Gothic church was very beautiful and slightly spooky given its situation in the dense woodland.But the interior was, to me, World Heritage standard(not that I’m an expert!) The 15th century frescoes were astonishing though it was very difficult to see them fully as no light is allowed inside and I got a mild telling off from our local chatelaine when my camera’s little ‘about to take a photo’  light came on.But incredibly, the images came out not too badly.They are certainly frescoes which to me, matched what we saw years ago in much more famous Assisi.Each told a story from the Bible.

The Dance of Death , the length of one whole wall, confirmed that everyone faces The End…from Kings to paupers.It was macabre but fascinating.

We spent a good 20 mins in the church(incredibly, our German ‘friend’ was still nipping my ear about his wet holiday😩.) It was a relief to escape him when we finally said thanks to the local lady, paid her the small fee of 3 Euros each and departed for Motovun.Truly, a highlight of the whole trip.

Quite an arrangement to visit this hill village.It was 7 euros to park below Motovun in a large car park. Then another small fee for the minibus to the top.It’s possible to walk but we were running out of time.The bus runs to a timetable so we only had 10 mins to wait.The 5 min journey dropped us at the bottom of the main street which led to the old town.Ahead lay a lovely entrance gate.

Then into a beautiful square lined with attractive buildings.It was all very quiet, most day trippers having departed by now.

Took a wander round the village and along the remains of the ancient walls.

And that was it.I’d hoped to find a cafe or restaurant but most places seemed to be shut so it was back to the minibus then off to Porec.

I’m not sure Motovun was entirely worth the trip as we have seen lovelier, more interesting villages in other parts of Europe.The countryside is very green and lush but not wildly scenic as such.

Our last night at Castello Rausch and once again we bought some nice salady stuff, prosciutto, cheese and good bread, tomatoes etc and enjoyed our balcony.

Tomorrow –a big drive to Plitvice Lakes and Pag Island.

Previous days – Rab and Krk Islands CROATIA – Islands, Istria and Plitvice Lakes. Cres and Losinj Islands CROATIA – PART 2 KRK, CRES and LOSINJ Islands