THE OUTER HEBRIDES – 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP (Days 1/2 Oban and Barra)

For lovers of wild places and deserted beaches which visually (if not temperature-wise!) would not be out of place in the Caribbean, the Outer Hebrides are a wonderful all year round destination offering truly glorious scenery.I can’t miss going to the islands at least once every year and we had had 10 superb days in April 2023. In mid-November’23 , we dedicated another 10 days to making our way up the island chain, starting from Oban.The plan was then, after a week, to leave the islands on the Stornoway(Lewis)– Ullapool ferry, giving us a final few days in superb Coigach/Assynt. In winter, there is of course a bit less choice re island accommodation with some small B&B providers shut but there’s still enough open to make a trip possible – with attractive low season rates too which always helps!

Weather is a lottery all year round in Scotland and the Outer Isles ferries ARE more likely to suffer some cancellation due to gales but we have actually had no problems at all with that in all the decades we have been travelling way out west in the depths of winter (New Year, very often) Lucky perhaps! That said, cancellations tend to be fairly short lived – a day at most; the ferries are vital lifelines to the people who live on the islands.They are certainly not just a tourist service.

Our plan (mapped here ) was:MAP OF TEN DAY TRIP – THE OUTER HEBRIDES

Oban  – Barra (1 night)  – Eriskay – South Uist  – North Uist (I night)  – Berneray – Harris (4 nights) – Stornoway/Ullapool (3 nights.)

To Oban

The day before our sail to Barra from Oban, I was keen to stay overnight nearby and have a relaxing start to the trip.It’s around a 2hr 40 min mostly hugely scenic drive to Oban from Glasgow so that usually means an early start for late morning or early afternoon ferries. Plus if any part of our road network is going to cause problems with closure due to accident or landslip, it’s the A82 up Loch Lomondside and the A83 to Inveraray at the Rest and Be Thankful hill pass! So – good to get the journey under our belts the night before with a relaxed short drive next day to the port.

Some views along that drive to Oban…

In winter, Caledonian Macbrayne (CalMac) car ferries make the 4hr 45 min sail to Barra from Oban 5 days a week (none on Thurs and Sat) with sailings every day in summer.We sailed out on a Friday and booked well in advance though really, the ferry was not busy but no point in taking any chances.I like stress free travel as far as possible – in summer, advance bookings are essential.

I’d got an excellent off season winter deal at the Ardaneisaig Hotel on the shores of Loch Awe, a short drive from Oban – DBB for 160 for the two of us!

Beautiful place, Gothic, quirky, good food, needs a bit of investment but wildly characterful, cosy and stunning location.Our room was gorgeous – garden facing.Super quiet.Mind you, there were only a handful of people staying, so no wonder! The grounds need a bit of TLC but being right on Loch Awe, it’s a stunning location.Very winding drive to the hotel, a good 25 mins off the main road to Oban but through nice scenery.Good for one night, but I wouldn’t fancy constantly having to drive that road back and forth every day.

The 1pm sailing to Barra was also quiet and we stood out on deck as it left port, enjoying sunny blue skies.

Lovely sail up the Sound of Mull, then out past Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to less sheltered waters but it was a pretty smooth trip all in.We spend most of any ferry journey out on deck, watching the ocean and the wonderful scenery.Spotted several schools of dolphins, all interspersed with carry out teas from the café to warm up! The Isle of Rum looked superb.

Arrived Castlebay in the dark at 6.30pm(darkness falls about 4.45pm at this time of year.)

I like good accommodation but the converted shed we arrived at, after a quick stop at Castlebay Co-op for supplies, was not appealing.Turned out, the Barra website had confused it with a nice looking permanent caravan I thought I’d booked( not much was available to book, lots of places had closed for the season and the two hotels were over priced.) It was clean and warm enough but a pretty glum place to arrive at after a long journey.Never mind! Heated up some excellent Co-op Chicken Pakora and had a glass of bubbly – our holiday had begun!

Gallons of tea in the morning, still dark at 8am.Set off just as it was getting light, eager to enjoy a drive up the island’s west coast and fit a lovely walk in near the airport at the north end, the loveliest end of Barra to me.

We were booked onto the Eriskay ferry at 11.10am. Glorious sunny skies for the twenty minute or so journey to Barra airport where we parked the car.Cockle-pickers out on the huge beach where the plane lands.Quite a few cars parked as a flight from Glasgow was due in around 10am.This is a world famous flight as it lands on the beach! Have watched it do so several times – spectacular.

Just opposite the airport, a little path leads in 5 mins to Traigh Iar, the West Beach, a magnificent stretch of white sand and probably my favourite on Barra.It also offers one of my favourite Hebridean walks (there are many!) and was perfect for our short time on Barra as the hike itself is only about 45 mins each way.

As it turned out, we didn’t go all the way out to the Dun(ancient fort) which sits atop the small outcrop of Dun Scurrival but spent time admiring the fab views then sauntering back along the sands.Not too cold once the sun got up…7C or so, not much wind.It’s always the wind that’s the killer, dropping the temperature by 10-15C or more and cutting through you like a knife.

Some photos of the beach in summer…

Sadly, the airport café was shut so no cake after the walk.It was quite busy though with people waiting for the Glasgow flight’s arrival. Shut cafes are of course a down side of off season travel – the excellent little café at Ardmore, where the Eriskay ferry leaves, was shut too!

I do like a nice cafe stop.Never mind, it’s a lovely spot at Ardmore, so we scanned the shore unsuccessfully for otters, then drove onto the ferry for the 11.10am crossing to Eriskay.It was chilly on deck during the 40 min sail but - as with most ferry journeys here – it was amidst lovely wild scenery.Very few cars or vans on board though we’d booked the journey anyway.

We did NOT do justice to Barra on this trip of course with only one night! Two or three nights would be ideal, as we have done previously.That would allow going over by causeway to enjoy Vatersay and its stunning beaches as well as exploring the rest of tiny Barra.It doesn’t take long to drive around but there is lovely walking on those endless series of white sands or on the rocky wee humps and bumps that are its green hills.

FOR MORE DETAIL ON BARRA and ERISKAY A Tour of the Outer Hebrides ( South Uist, Eriskay and Barra) A WONDERFUL BEACH WALK ON BARRA

Next 2 days Eriskay and The Uists: THE OUTER HEBRIDES 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP ( Days 2/3 Eriskay, Benbecula and The Uists)

Days 4- 5 on Harris THE OUTER HEBRIDES 10 DAYS NOVEMBER TRIP(Days 4-5Harris)

Some photos from previous trips in summer: