As forecast, it was a bit cloudier next day so after a breakfast of muesli, prunes and yoghurt for me and a bacon roll for Chris, we headed for Northton, a 10 min drive away.The plan was to do another favourite walk , this time out to Northton Temple, a 15th century chapel ruin on a small headland, reached via three beautiful beaches and a spectacular walk above low cliffs. It’s only about 3.5 miles return.
Got parked at the road end (difficult in summer) and walked up a track to the path above the first beach.
This gives easy, fairly dry walking above a mostly rocky shore, quite dramatic at times, before the path heads through a gate and down to the second beach, a dreamy spot.Ahead lay the little pyramid mountain of Ceapabhal, a steep wee hill with glorious views and only taking about 1 hr 15 to the top.Hopefully, tomorrow’s objective, as the forecast was for sun…it really deserves a decent weather day with good light.
We were strolling along this lovely beach when I heard the most raucous sound, very harsh and looked up as a Sea Eagle flew above the shore, calling wildly .In fact, shortly after this, another two eagles appeared. Whether they were rivals for a mate, I’m not sure but it was very dramatic and a brilliant sight.That said, they are fairly common to see in the Outer Hebrides though it’s always a thrill to see them.On one 4 day trip a year or so back, we had 11 different sightings of eagles.
Five minutes further on, we reached the 3rd beach , another lovely stretch of sand.Not quite at its best given the dull weather but still beautiful.Not a soul around.
The temple itself is at a lovely spot too, the coast beyond very rocky and rough.
We sat out of the wind at the chapel with some coffee from the flask and cheese sandwiches.A very wild and stunning spot.It’s a hard place to leave, but we were getting cold after sitting for half an hour, so - time to go.
Saw a big Atlantic Grey seal in the water as we headed back, it was so close we could see its body twisting and curling in the shallows.They are very curious so it had a good look at us.There are often porpoises about here too but not today.
It’s possible to walk back via an inland grassy track through the machair but that would mean missing the lovely coast so we retraced our steps.
Stopped off at the Community Co-op supermarket in Leverburgh and stocked up for the next few days.Couldn’t resist their excellent Chicken Pakora! As good as from an Indian restaurant, with a spicy dip.That was dinner sorted!Dropped it off at our wee Shepherd’s Hut and headed for Traigh Iar beach.A bit of rain came on, the first since we’d left home but it didn’t last long.
Thankfully it had stopped by the time we parked up at the beach and wandered down to the creamy sands, though the sky was threatening.
There is a fine 2.5 metre high standing stone – Macleod’s Stone - which sits above the beach and reached after a 10 min walk.
The rest of the day was spent visiting beaches so next up was Luskentyre, now quite famous and deserving of that fame too.It’s stunning and on a sunny day, would shame the Caribbean Bit of a grey day to see it all but Harris looks great, to me, in any weather.First though, a stop to admire the fantastic view over Seilebost towards Luskentyre…
Had a long walk at Scarista beach which is another beautiful, empty stretch of sand with the North Harris mountains as a backdrop.No one else there.Ceapabhal rises too at its southern end.
Before demolishing Chicken Pakora at the Shepherd’s Hut and just before the sun went down, I headed out to Borve beach again for another short stroll – I just don’t want to miss a minute of Harris, it’s such a gorgeous place!
Previous Days : THE OUTER HEBRIDES – 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP (Days 1/2 Oban and Barra)THE OUTER HEBRIDES 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP ( Days 2/3 Eriskay, Benbecula and The Uists)10 Days OUTER HEBRIDES in November (Days 3/4 Berneray and over to Harris)






















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