10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP OUTER HEBRIDES (Day 7: Harris to Ullapool)

Our ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool was at 1pm, around a 90 min drive from Borve. Up early, got packed and said goodbye to our charming accommodation.Time for a final short walk on Seilebost beach and a brief stop in Tarbet for a peruse of the lovely Harris Tweed products in the gift shop beside the Distillery. Great selection of jackets and women’s coats- I got Chris his Tweed jacket here several years ago.We spent a bit less spend this time , though Chris bought me a Harris tweed water bottle cover, very cute (and expensive) plus I bought some nice tweed coasters to take back to the family and for ourselves.

After an hour’s easy and fast drive from Tarbert to Stornoway, we parked at Tesco and stocked up for our next three nights near Ullapool.It was pretty cold so the car on board the ferry would act like a fridge!

Made for the café and Arts Centre at An Lanntair for some takeaway cups of tea then back to the ferry queue where , by 12.15pm, loading began.

Bye bye Lewis and the Oute Hebrides as the ferry slowly left the dock, the seagulls wheeling and keening above.It was a stunning day of amazing clarity.Stood out on deck for most of the voyage, about a zillion layers on plus thick woolly hat and gloves.Regular hot cups of tea from the cafe were essential! Quite a few birdwatchers/wildlife watchers on deck as ever.

First sighting…a school of Common Dolphins on the hunt, leaping through the cold dark waters.

The views to the mainland mountains were fantastic…the inselberg peaks of Quinag, Suilven, Stac Pollaidh and Cul Mor etched on the horizon.What a coastline!

Further south lay the mountains of Wester Ross all the way down to Skye and the Trotternish ridge.Magnificent.

Another school of dolphins appeared about an hour later into the 2hr 30 crossing.Such a sight!  No Orcas this time though I ve seen them in these waters before.

But the view was really the thing…on such a clear day, it must be one of the finest ferry journeys for landscape anywhere.Astonishing views of the unique mountains of amazing Assynt.

Suilven, the great Sugar Loaf itself, so iconic.

Stac Pollaidh looking unassailable but with a good , well built path up onto its narrow ridge. Cul Mor which we’d climbed in 2023 on a gorgeous April day.

My eye was on Ben Mor Coigach, a massif rising straight out of the sea and we had great views of it as the ferry passed the Summer Isles.The forecast was good for tomorrow so I fancied it as our hike for tomorrow, as the views from its various summits are stunning.

Soon we were sailing into Loch Broom itself and the whitewashed houses of Ullapool, strung along the shore, came into view.

Bang on time, we drove off the ferry , then up through Main Street, picking up the A835 north to our self-catering accommodation for the next three nights above Ardmair Bay.A lovely place it was too, an upper conversion of a large bungalow with great views from the sitting room and bedroom over the sea.Very cosy and comfortable.

I’m always sorry to leave the islands behind but Assynt and Coigach are equally fantastic for landscape, so my spirits were high.

Next two days: Ben Mor Coigach hike, then rain sets in but Gairloch and Gruinard beaches still beautiful.

Previous Days: THE OUTER HEBRIDES – 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP (Days 1/2 Oban and Barra)THE OUTER HEBRIDES 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP ( Days 2/3 Eriskay, Benbecula and The Uists)10 Days OUTER HEBRIDES in November (Days 3/4 Berneray and over to Harris)THE OUTER HEBRIDES 10 DAYS NOVEMBER TRIP(Days 4-5Harris)10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP OUTER HEBRIDES (Day 6)