The NW Highlands, to me, begin around Invergarry but the Far North West is really Ullapool northwards to Durness.It’s a truly magnificent area, thinly populated, yet with good main roads..better than many further south! There is single track too of course , some of it extremely winding around the tortuous if gorgeous coast and along Loch Lurgainn…the latter, to me, a must do drive in any itinerary.
See Area Map here:Map – Far North West Highlands
The Far North West is a place apart yet it is less than a 90 min easy drive from Inverness to the handsome, white washed town of Ullapool, the area’s largest (though still tiny by most standards.)
Lochinver is next in size, though even smaller and also makes a good base.
The Far NW is also part of the popular North Coast 500 route and, along with Torridon, offers that road trip’s most stunning landscapes.
With a base in Ullapool (which has the most choice in terms of accommodation, cafes and restaurants as well as being one of the ferry ports for the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides) this is what I would prioritise with three nights/two full days.
Ullapool
A lovely wee place, always buzzy and with lovely views down Loch Broom.The Ceilidh Place is my favourite spot for food, open all day for breakfast through to dinner.Good food and atmosphere and decent music played in the background.An excellent little bookshop too and, in nice weather, a small terrace out front.
Seafood Shack
Across the road sits this super popular seafood van with outside seating…langoustines, scallops, lobster…I have to admit I’ve not tried it yet but it’s always queued out.
Carry out Fish and Chips: several places.The Seaforth and Delicasea are pretty much the same in quality, I’ve found.Should be better then they are but chips let these places down as they tend to use ready prepared pre frozen chips which never taste if anything much.The fish though, is good.
Loch Lurgainn and Achnahaird Beach
It’s a belter of a drive once you set off north from Ullapool along the fast A835 and soon wonderful Ardmair Bay comes into view.The impressive, rugged flat topped mountain at the opposite side of the bay is Ben Mor Coigach.It’s a very straightforward hill walk offering astonishing views.More on hiking this superb mountain from the Achiltibuie side, here:stac pollaidh climb
In 15 mins or so, a single track road heads off to the left signposted to Achiltibuie.This is a must do drive! It’s absolutely stunning with the strange, inselberg mountains that the area is known for, rearing up on all side above beautiful lochs.
There are several places to pull in for photos as – even although I know the area well- I can’t help stopping, often, to capture the unfolding vistas.The light and the colours vary so much throughout the seasons – very green in summer, tawny, amber and gold in autumn.Magnificent.
Stac Pollaidh
The most famous mountain on this road is little Stac Pollaidh…an eroded cone which has an excellent path built round its upper slopes and with just a bit of effort, a branch off path which goes onto its very narrow ridge.Its a must do hike for those who loves a good hill walk, very short but utterly spectacular.For more on the walk round the mountain and with the add on of going right up onto the ridge see
From the Stac Pollaidh car park, a slightly boggy little path leads easily down to the loch itself and one of its delightful, pink sand beaches.
Achnahaird Beach
Heading on from here, the next stop is Achnahaird Beach, a gorgeous place with a fantastic backdrop of Coigach and Assynt peaks.Coigach is the name of this wider area, with Assynt lying a little further north.
From the turn off from the A835, it’s about a 40 min drive to Achnahaird.The minor road to the beach offers outstanding views across Coigach too.
There is a very small car park and a path that leads down to the pinkish sands.It’s not the best beach in the NW but the whole setting is stunning and wild and there are rarely many people on the sands.I had an (extremely chilly!) wild swim here last May with the family in the crystal clear, turquoise water.
Achiltibuie
There is self catering accommodation in the area and the lovely Summer Isles Hotel is good for food.
Achiltibuie is a straggling village with wonderful views across to the Summer Isles and the mountainous coast of the North West,mall the way south to Torridon and Skye.
There is also a very pleasant, well kept campsite at nearby Port a Bhaigh which we stayed in, in September 2024. Best to book ahead.There’s a wee shop attached to the campsite.
It’s worth driving through Achiltibuie to the end of the road at Culnacraig where there is parking for the start of the hill walk up Ben Mor Coigach.
A short hop across the open moorland opposite gives stunning views down the coast.The tiny local shop that services the village is also worth a look as they sometimes , in summer, have live langoustines for sale – we picked up a box of these delicious prawns for not much money.There is no better seafood in the world than can be found off Scotland’s west coast! In contrast to rubbery and tasteless imported Tiger Prawns, Scottish Langoustines are sweet and tender – there’s nothing like them.
Returning to the A835 , the scenery continues to wow.There is actually a single track road signposted to Lochinver , a tortuous, winding road which is known as The Wee Mad Road, because it drives everyone mad! It’s not my favourite drive though it does offer some great views but they are not as good, in my opinion, as those from the better quality and faster A835 which is NOT single track.The latter is a much more enjoyable drive.
The next stop on the A835, just mins away from the Loch Lurgainn junction, has to be Knockan Crag. This simple walk gives fabulous views over the landscape.
There is a car park and toilets and a short walk on a good path to a covered information hub, explaining the area’s geography.That sounds a bit dull but it’s well done and even I, not renowned for interest in the subject, absorbed most of it.Scotland and England were never originally joined as one; the land that is now Scotland slowly travelled south and east from Canada, to become the rugged, sea indented, Highland region of today.No wonder Scotland and England look and feel so very different!
But the real glory of the stop is the chance to walk up onto the top of the escarpment on mostly very good, built paths where outstanding views present themselves.
It’s also possible to simply do a short, lower level loop though be aware that the paths on this northern side of the visitor hub traverse very steep ground which I found slightly unnerving in places.The upper section heads up to the top of the cliffs but we retraced our steps(at my request) and used another , less exposed path , to access the higher ground which I’ll describe below.
From the information hub, walk back to the car park again and follow the obvious path going the OTHER way(in a southerly direction)past some fir trees. This very easily and pleasantly winds its way up to the top of the escarpment with no difficulty at all and no sense of exposure.
We spent about 90 mins at Knockan Crag last September, wandering along the top of the cliffs, enjoying the wide moorland all around and the really magnificent views.It’s also a great place for a picnic. That said, just simply walking the loop up and along the escarpment and back down again might only take a brisk walker 30-40 mins or so.
Cul Mor
Sitting opposite Knockan Crag is one of Assynt’s great inselberg mountains, Cul Mor.For experienced hikers it’s a straightforward hill walk and for more detail , see my experience in 2023:Cul Mor hike
Suilven
One of our most iconic mountains, the Sugar Loaf looks like something out of Lord of the Rings.It’s another of the single, inselberg mountains that rise out of the rock and lochan dotted moorland.I made it up Suilven’s summit a long time ago, on a family holiday to Inverkirkaig near Lochinver.Never wanting to leave the boys for too long, I was away at 5am from the parking spot on the Glencanisp Lodge road(just off the main road that goes through Lochinver village) and on the top at 8am.Had it all to myself and in fact, never met a soul all that half day.By 12 noon I was back at our chalet having lunch.It had been touch and go whether I would make the final few metres as the exposure suddenly kicked in with big drops on either side of a very narrow little section.But, onwards and upwards I went to a summit as flat as a football field and stunning panorama.
It’s a long walk in, around 10km or 6 miles each way but well worth it.
Loch Assynt/Ardvreck Castle
It’s one of my favourite drives, the road to Loch Assynt, where lies the atmospheric ruin of Ardvreck Castle sitting above its little beach.
The cone topped mountain ahead is Quinag, another great hill walk.
Just before the castle, at Inchnadamph , look out for herds of red deer which often graze close to the road.
The A835 splits at Skiag Bridge, the A837 route going to Lochinver, the northerly A894 making for Kylesku and eventually becoming the A838 to Durness.
Lochinver, Achmelvich Beach and the coast road.
I really like wee Lochinver, just being this far north. We had some lovely family holidays here when my two boys were young, staying in Inverkirkaig.
Accommodation options here include 4 star Inver Lodge which sits on the hill above the village and other Airbnb/Booking.com listed places.
Don’t miss the Lochinver Larder which does wonderful, takeaway home made pies of every description – savoury and sweet.My favourite is their Venison and Cranberry Pie though the Beef and Lamb Pies are excellent too. Several other eating out choices in the village.
There is a decent small supermarket too and petrol and a Tourist Info Centre at the far end of the village near the fish processing plant.Lochinver still has an active fishing fleet.Typical Assynt coast below…
For a nice short walk , drive a short way along the minor road signposted to Glencanisp Lodge(also the start of the Suilven walk.) There is some parking on the left a mile or so in.This quiet road gives lovely views of Suilven rising beyond the islet dotted , trout rich waters of Loch Suardalainn.The road continues as far as the once grand Glencanisp Lodge, then peters out into a much boggier track which is the main route for the mountain walk.
Some of the best views of Suilven are actually from the nearby (signposted) Baddidarroch area where various Airbnb options are.We stayed in Caisteal Liath self catering which also does B&B.Great views from their terrace.
Achmelvich Beach
It’s a twisting, narrow single track road to Achmelvich Beach with some gorgeous views of the superb Assynt coastline.
The beach is actually a beautiful pair of white strands, the first one backed (unfortunately) by a large caravan site.It’s VERY busy during the school holidays with people paddle boarding across the crystal clear turquoise bay .I used to love sunny days here when my own two boys were very young.
By walking over the small headland, there is a smaller, equally beautiful and quieter beach.
There is a charming and interesting small Nature Hut at the car park, good for adults as well as children with bird skulls, skate egg cases, shells…lots of wee things to handle and study.
Another 15 mins tortuous but wildly scenic drive further on from here is Clachtoll, a straggly collection of caravan site and scattered crofts behind a small white sand beach.Great views of the Inverpolly mountains from here too.
At Stoer, low tide reveals a nice beach though bouldery and an ancient Dun(fort) on the headland.
The road continues out to Stoer Point Lighthouse, a magnificent spot and good for whale watching.The main fork heads for Clashnessie where there is a lovely waterfall a short walk from the road and a beautiful white sand beach.
The road continues through Drumbeg( a single shop,which never seems to open!) and then finally joins, after going uphill and down dale, the main A835 at Unapool.
With the exception of a visit to Achmelvich beach, I would always choose the main A835 for scenery rather than the coast road.Unusually I would add, as I love the coast but it’s a tough drive plus you are often a bit inland rather than following the sea the whole way.
Skiag Bridge to Kylesku
This is a fabulous drive on the A894, a sweeping, fast road with amazing views of the mountains…Quinag in particular.There is also a nice waterfall inland from a small parking area on the right (as you head north).
At Kylesku, boat trips leave from this miniscule village(essentially a petrol station and lovely small hotel) to explore Loch Glencoul and Britain’s highest waterfall EAs a Chuill Aluinn.The waterfall is long and thin and a bit underwhelming to be honest but the landscape is stunning.There is a nice boat trip going up the wild lochs here amongst gorgeous scenery.
Kylesku Bridge
An iconic image on the NC 500 is this sweeping bridge over the sea loch with the great prow of Quinag in the background.Two car parks offer stunning views over the bridge and wider landscape.
Really, this is road trip heaven with amazing views round every corner and easy driving.
The alternative route – Lochinver to Drumbeg/Unapool road
For those who prefer to follow the tortuous coast road beyond Lochinver via Achmelvich, Clachtoll and Drumbeg, this is certainly worth doing if you have time in the area.It’s a tough old drive with some gorgeous views of course, perhaps at its loveliest (apart from Achmelvich) around Clashnessie Beach.The road re joins the A894 at Unapool.
Scourie
Scourie is the next village, a very small place with a nice caravan and camp8ng site right beside the sea, a small hotel and a beautiful B &B at Scourie !odge where we stayed last September.
At low tide, white sand is revealed edging this lovely wild bay with Handa Island just visible too.It’s possible to walk round by the graveyard where a narrow path winds its way out to the headland.
There is a first class Seafood Takeaway place Crofters Kitchen, so good that we had lunch and dinner here during our one night stay.
Lunch was lobster and langoustines and crab claws with good chips and salad which we shared.Dinner was probably the best braised beef dish I’ve ever had…slow cooked for over 20 hours and marinaded in spices…it was superb.Melt in the mouth soft beef.Scourie view to Ben Stack below…
Handa Island
A Nature Reserve and a great half day out. – a full day if you decide to follow the path right round the island.Drive to Tarbert where there is the small boat that goes over to Handa Island.Check timetable on line and book in advance as its popular.The crossing takes about 15- 20 mins and you land on a beautiful white sand beach.
A short talk from the resident Ranger about the dos and don’t’s on the island as it is a nesting site for protected species such as Great Skuas.Essentially, keep to the paths!
Skuas are intimidating birds and if you do head off onto the moorland, they will attack! As it is, they patrol the moor and will not bother you on the built boardwalk.
The path from the beach and Ranger Hut gradually ascends to sheer cliffs, a magnificent sight with stunning mountain and ocean scenery all around.There is no fencing so keep well back.
From April to early August, puffins also nest on the Great Stack of Handa, the impressive sea stack a stones throw away,which is loud with the raucous call of seabirds…guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars.Skuas patrol overhead, ready to steal the fish or eel catch from the birds…we’ve even seen Skuas drown a bird to extract the food from its gullet.
A good place for a picnic on a nice day, up on the cliffs surrounded by the wildness of a huge seabird colony.Look out too for some of our most beautiful birds…Red Throated Divers.
The circuit round the island takes about an hour.Or just head back to the beach.
Tarbert is just a jetty, lobster pots and a nice family run Seafood Bistro.It sits in classic Assynt coastal scenery.
Views to Ben Stack, Arkle and Foinaven
The road beyond the Tarbert turn off gives increasingly good views of these mountains as they rise beyond Loch Laxford.The road finally becomes single track to Durness but there are very long sightlines so it’s an easy enough section to drive.
It’s worth detouring down the A 838 to Loch Stack which gives some stunning views over the loch to these wild mountains.
Oldshoremore Beaches
A 15 min detour off the A838 onto the B801 is well worth it to stroll one or two of these beautiful bays.The first has a good parking area and it’s a short walk through the dunes to the white sands.At low tide it’s possible to walk to Polin Beach which is over the far headland and quieter.Polin Beach can be accessed from the croft land above the beach but parking isn’t easy.Its a 10 min walk down a wettish path to the lovely beach.
Ben Stack from Polin Beach…
Sandwood Bay
Very special! Definitely worth it for those looking for a longer hike as it’s over 4 miles each way(around 90mins – 2 hrs each way), mostly easy flat miles on an excellent path but with a gradual descent through a huge dune system(and therefore uphill on the return!). It’s a huge, wild pinkish sand beach with cliffs at each end and views to Cape Wrath to the north.The beach is also said to be haunted! We wild camped here several years ago and it was magical.
Old Schoolhouse Restaurant, Richonich
We had a great meal here but book in advance.They also have a few B&B rooms.
It’s on this detour out to Oldshoremore etc that one of the classic views of Assynt is seen…
As the road makes its way to Durness, there are great views to Foinaven, the big grey mountain to the right and Cranstackie.
Durness
The Kyle of Durness is a beautiful area which I particularly love at low tide…
Durness itself is straggly village of no great charm but the area around it is beautiful.Don’t miss a walk out along the biggest beach of all on this coast…Balnakiel. Various paths lead out to Faraid Head where puffins nest in summer and which gives fine views over the cliff girt coast and back towards the mountains.
Cocoa Mountain
There is a Craft Village in the old Nissan huts on the road to Balnakiel and chocoholics (like me) shouldn’t miss calling in to Cocoa Mountain , where they make their own chocolates.I have to admit, I don’t think it’s as good as it used to be.Ive tried chocolates from top Paris chocolatiers and I didn’t think they were as good for flavour as CC’s but whether cost cutting is happening I don’t know, but the flavours aren’t as good and the excellent variety they used to have, has been cut back.But judge for yourself! They market themselves as offering the best Hot Chocolate anywhere.The cafe is pretty basic inside and the staff could be friendlier but I never resist calling in.
Coves beyond Durness
There are a series of lovely pink coves beyond Durness with car parking above the nicest one. There is, sadly, a Zip Line operator now but nothing can spoil the beauty of the beach itself.Our tent is just visible in the photo above.
Towards Whiten Head…the light changes so much….
Cape Wrath
A half day trip can be made out to this, the most North Westerly point in the UK. It’s an adventure! It begins with a short boat trip from the jetty at Keoldale , across the lovely Kyle of Durness, then an hour’s bone rattling travel in a battered old minibus out to the Lighthouse. A postcards can be bought in the tiny shop and posted here with the Cape Wrath stamp on them.There is a small cafe too but I wouldn’t rely on it for food.Bring your own.No toilets.
The trip cannot be booked in advance so it’s first come, first served and the boat leaves at different times, according to the tide.There are normally only two trips each day, morning and afternoon.
The cliffs and lighthouse are a wild, wonderful place to wander around – you get an hour to do so.For more on our experience…https://annestravelsandhikes.com/2016/12/12/cape-wrath-and-kylesku/
Sango Bay and Smoo Cave
A very popular trip is to walk down to see the cave below the cliffs.That said, I’m not a cave fan so I haven’t visited it yet! There is a very well run caravan site on the cliffs and some lovely pink coves below it.
Tongue
The drive round to the nice wee village of Tongue is beautiful, taking you round Loch Eriboll, a big lonely stretch of water with little habitation.
It’s not easy to get down to the Kyle of Tongue where the beach is but it is possible with care to park off the road and walk down through fields and gates to the sands.It’s a glorious spot for photos with Ben Loyal in the background.
I hope this gives a flavour of a truly magnificent and outstandingly beautiful area of Scotland which though much busier than it used to be (given the popularity of the North Coast 500 drive) still feels wild and off the beaten track.A glorious area, world class.
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