Today was Grey Glacier boat trip day.I’d booked it a few days before, based on the Mountain forecast I was using for the area.
It took around 40 mins to drive to Hotel Lago Grey from the cabin.The road was slightly better when we turned off the Y150 but then it deteriorated quite badly.The last section was truly awful, possibly the worst yet.I did wonder what guests at this beautiful 4 star accommodation thought of access to the £470 per night accommodation. The car park itself was really poor…basically an area of gi-normous pot holes that you really couldn’t avoid.With care, we got parked.
A short walk through woodland took us to the hotel itself which again didn’t look like much from the outside but was absolutely lovely inside and with the second best view in the park! The photos I’ve seen of the interior and that vista just don’t do either justice; certainly, nothing captures the sheer scale of Paine Grande.It is absolutely stunning.
It was 10.30am and I asked at reception about being able to check in early for our 1pm trip. I was pointed to a separate desk for this but they said no – strictly 1 hour before sailing only.We were slightly worried about this, as there is an advertised 45 min walk to where the Catamaran leaves from Grey Beach PLUS you don’t start the walk at the hotel. After check in, you have to retrieve your car again and drive a few mins to start the walk at a large cafe. It all seemed rather awkward though in reality, the walk from cafe, over the Pingo river, through the woodland then across the gravel beach to the boat, only took us about 25 mins and that was strolling and taking photos.
But…when things are new… you don’t know this!
Ok, we decided we’d drive to the café and check out how long that portion of moving the car would take so… back up that awful road section and down the left fork.All in, maybe 5 mins to move the car from the hotel to the café car park.The road to the cafe and the parking were much, much better in quality.
The café was disappointing, hemmed in by woodland and a bit of a barn of a place.It didn’t appeal for coffee so we drove back to the hotel again (!) having checked things out. (I’d noticed a walking route signposted from the café back to the hotel but again, we weren’t sure how long it would take so decided to stick to using the car. )
Got a nice seat in the hotel, in a lovely upmarket environment and which offered that unbeatable view. Sadly, no cakes to be had. Enjoyed an hour or so there and watched a Condor land on the beach where there was some sort of carcass lying.Great sight!
I asked at reception about booking for dinner around 5pm after our boat trip ended but they said they couldn’t do this – too busy.This was not the case as reception had told me earlier there was hardly anyone staying and everyone was enjoying a rest! Big dining room with terrific view, would have been nice to eat here.
I’d originally had a 4 night booking in the hotel (without activities and transport which would have trebled the price) but we decided against it. Staying here B&B would have cost us £1000 more than at the cabin and we just didn’t think that could be justified. As it turned out, for us, it was the right decision.
At 11.50am, a queue began to form for boat check in so we joined.Fairly quick getting through everyone and we immediately headed for the car to get a head start on the as yet, unknown walk.
Parked at the café, then saw a sign indicating where we headed for the boat.Over a bridge, over the river then through woodland which led down to the gravel beach.Spotted a Chilean Flicker on a tree.
The beach itself is a fantastic spot and we enjoyed the easy flat walk to the catamaran at the far end.
A big queue of people was now snaking their way over the beach towards the boat.
The Trip
For the first 15 mins, we were not allowed out on deck as there was a long safety talk and also info given about the area and glacier.After this, we were allowed out and also got served our free Pisco Sours (very nice it was too with a lump of glacier ice in it.)
We shared a table with guys from Luxembourg who were also a great laugh.They were on a South America tour without their wives though one father- in- law was there too which they joked would keep them in order! They passed round various whiskies during the trip and were surprised we were Scottish – the father in law (actually probably our age, late 60s) had even been on a whisky tour of Islay, a beautiful small island with 9 distilleries.
I was a bit frustrated not to get out to photograph the scenery right away as the sun had come out and it was all looking magnificent. However, the chap speaking was interesting.
The boat stopped at Grey Landing where they pick up those who had been doing some of the multi day trek circuit.We had to wait an extra 20 mins here because 4 American hikers had misjudged the distance and how long it would take them plus one had a slight injury.
To pass the time while we were all inside again, they ran a quiz..who could name 5 animals in the Park.I answered first – guanacos, hare, armadillo, fox, puma and won another free drink! Good fun.
Eventually, on we headed to the glacier which is actually separated into 3 areas, each of which we visited.
I admit, I am not one of these people who goes crazy over glaciers. I’ve seen glaciers in Greenland, Svalbard, Norway, Iceland, Alaska and Canada and for me, it is aways about the overall mountain scenery.
The landscapes here were great with the back end of Paine Grande looking very impressive.
Of course, it was still good to see the glacier and the light really improved a lot over the next hour or so as we cruised from one section to the next.
Then cloud came in and made everything very moody which was even better! Nice temperature outside too and no wind.
The boat trip is an easy , enjoyable way to see another part of the Park. $110 or so each for the 3 hour tour.There didn’t seem to me much point in hiking here for 6.5 hrs and 22km when the boat takes you in so easily for the same views.We’ve also walked across glaciers when we climbed Norway (and Europe’s) highest mountain, Galdhoppigen, so that didn’t hold huge appeal here, if it had been activity which was available.
I thought the scenery/glacier overall was more impressive in Glacier Bay, Alaska and also in various parts of East Greenland and Svalbard but Grey Glacier was very much worthwhile seeing.
Nice light on the Cuernos/Horns as we returned to the beach…
The beach itself and the nearby Mirador are excellent places for getting superb views of the mountain range.Zoomed below…
A final look back to the glacier, a stunning area…
Heading back to the woodland…
On our return walk, the Condor in the beach area – we could clearly see its white collar and spent some time admiring it.
Another great day in TDP…
Driving back…
Ever changing light…
Stopping off at the visitor centre I happened to notice that if we wanted to do the Towers walk tomorrow (which we had pencilled in as a possible option) we would have to be at the start of the walk at 9am otherwise the trail was closed! The girls on the desk were unsure about whether this meant being at the Visitor Centre at Lago Amargo entrance or the Hotel Torres both of which were around a 90 min drive away from our cabins.Crikey!
Had a chat about it – I had never been convinced about this walk which seemed far too long given the appeal (or lack of it to me) of the final destination.Yes, the Towers looked great but very like the Dolomites which we were re-visiting later this year and which offer several not dissimilar viewpoints of rocky towers which can be reached by car or short walk! Did we really want to devote the last day of what was forecast as good weather, doing a 8-9 hour hike mostly through unremarkable scenery, to arrive at a good but to me, not world class viewpoint?? It seems to have become one of those Instagram ‘must sees.’
That said, we hike a lot at home and enjoy the mountains.The weekend before we came to Chile we had climbed a couple of 800m mountains above the sea, tough slogs but offering stunning views from the off.We certainly felt up to the Towers walk.
I also didn’t fancy a 90 min drive in the dark on those roads starting off at crazy o’clock but we finally decided we should put ourselves in the position for the hike at least and take it from there.
Next Day: to Hotel Torres and a final decision on the hike plus Mirador Condor
annestravelsandhikes.com 