DAY 3: Hvithamar Mountain Hike, Gjogv and Tjornavik villages
Map below of where I drove today…the red dot is Torshavn (155km)
The further north in the Faroes I travelled the more spectacular the scenery became.The great terraced, pyramid mountains that had first attracted my interest in photos, now appeared everywhere.Wow! I was now on Esyuroy Island via one of the many tunnels connecting the islands.
I also wanted to do a short hike onto the ridge called Hvithamar (sometimes Funningur), billed as one of the Faroes’ finest viewpoints.I actually chose this over the famous Kallur Lighthouse hike on Kalsoy Island as the view impressed me more.Plus, my car booking to Kalsoy was cancelled by the operator and I would have had to take my chance in the queue or go over as a foot passenger.With a dodgy forecast for the day ahead, I didn’t want to be at the mercy of buses and stuck there all day for the sake of one single short hike.
The drive along Funningsfjordur Fjord was wonderful and I stopped often for photos.Then the intimidating looking mountain road that zigzagged up the flanks of Slaettaratindur, the Faroes highest mountain at 880m.
Below lay the tiny village of Funningar.But the road was nice and wide and in good condition so it was a very easy albeit truly spectacular drive.
Very safe. Hvithamar mountain is on the right in the photo below.
At the highest point of this road before it swept down to Gjogv, there is a small parking area and an information board describing the short hike to Hvithamar.
It can be done as an almost flat out and back of about 20 mins or a longer 1 hr loop; the latter was my aim.There is an obvious path on wide moorland, with marker posts and the first part of it is almost flat and heads out on a ‘family friendly’ path to a viewpoint which is stunning.
It is then possible to continue the walk, following the posts as the path climbs higher onto the ridge itself.It’s plenty wide and only takes another 15 mins or so.A little rockier at the top but the path winds through this easily and with wide slopes all around.The photo below makes it look more exposed than it actually is!
There is a sign at the top saying not to go any further as it gets precipitous.
The views all around are magnificent , with Slaettaratindur behind and only 200m or so higher.
Kalsoy Island sits across the fjord, incredibly steep and jagged and behind it lies equally steep Kunoy Island (which I visited on my last day here.)
Really, an astonishing view of the Faroes distinctive mountains.
The weather was coming in now, as per the forecast – clouds over the Faroes highest mountain…
Back down via a fence line, steepish but fine.I was the only person at the top , nice to have it all to myself.I was so glad I chose this hike over Kallur Lighthouse as I then had the rest of the day to see more of these stunning islands.
Gjogv Village
Five minutes drive downhill lay the lovely picturesque wee huddle of older and mostly newer houses at Gjogv though many had turf roofs and were built in the traditional style.It’s known as one of the Faroes prettiest villages (I liked Tjornuvik much better though it is less well known.)Very much farmed too with one or two small stone storage houses amongst the emerald fields.Very like the storage cleats on St Kilda but smaller.
A small harbour is built into a cleft in the rocks.
It’s an inhospitable coast which doesn’t invite a stroll being steep and rocky but an excellent path has been built which winds above the village and heads up onto the cliffs.A small donation of about £5 is requested via an honesty box.As with other places, the money can also be paid into the farmer’s bank account, details on a little card!
I followed the path up to a small building but rain was now coming in and the wind had become fierce so I skipped going to the very top.
Quite a few puffins to be seen nesting on the grassy areas above Gjogv and of course, fine views across the sea to the jagged outline of Kalsoy Island (of Kallur Lighthouse walk fame.)
Got a tea from the carry out café and sat out on the terrace until the ever increasing rain chased me back to the car.
Tjornuvik
The Bradt Guidebook I was using suggested that Tjornuvik was a bit of a hidden gem so off I headed to Streymoy Island again (Torshavn is on Streymoy.)Back over the mountain road initially…
Great scenic drive to Tjornuvik – nowhere is NOT scenic here – with a wee set of traffic lights at the final steep, single track descent to the village.This ensures that cars are travelling in one direction only as the road is far too narrow for cars going both ways.The lights display a countdown until they change to green – from what I could see, 5 mins is given for the descent or ascent to Tjornuvik so it wasn’t a long wait.
The road down to Tjornuvik, visible in the photo…good safe road as they all are in the islands…
This was my favourite village to date ( I say to date as one more was still to come tomorrow!) which I enjoyed better than Gjogv. The location is more impressive plus it has many traditional, turf roofed houses and all are fronted by an attractive black sand beach.
I was missing beaches a bit on the Faroes, being a fan of a stroll along a strand but much of the coast is too precipitous and very bouldery.Out to sea reared the rock stacks of Risin and Kellingen contributing to a wild outlook. The wind had really picked up now.
Always a lovely church in the villages though always locked
I walked out along the coast a little then, after another stroll round the historic old houses, it was café time.
Tjornavik had the cutest café of all – the Litl Café (Little Café) in a turf roofed house. I was asked to take my boots off as the café is also the family’s house; I left them beside a pile of other assorted footwear! Then into a small sitting room with two communal tables and lots of chairs, books and ornaments – essentially, a cosy attractive home.
It also served the best waffles I’ve ever tasted – truly home made, fresh waffles, light as a feather and served with Rhubarb Jam (what else?) and freshly whipped cream. I say that as someone who never eats waffles! They always seem quite stodgy and straight out of a packet or frozen but these were gorgeous. I did ask the young chap serving if he made them and I caught him just as he was whipping up another batch! That was my answer!
Tea and a large waffle was a set 60 kroner (£7) – no point in just ordering tea or coffee, it costs the same! The freshly whipped cream was served in a small, metal cool box placed in front of me, so I could help myself to as much as I wanted. A delightful place all round -I’d head here for those waffles alone to be honest.
12 Viking graves have been found on the edge of the village.I had a quick look at the site; the various artefacts are now in the Museum in Torshavn.
An hour’s drive back found me at my Airbnb once more and tonight, dinner at home.
Next Day: Mulafossur Waterfall, Drangarnir/Puffin Boat trip, Kunoy Island and Village (Northern Isles)
First 2 Days:SOLO IN THE FAROE ISLANDS
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