Distance: 10km Ascent 350m Time taken: 5hrs including coffee, lunch and photo stops.
This was a must do walk but, IF the forecast was accurate, we only had a short 1.5 hour window to enjoy it.Rain was due by 11am and we had no access to the hike start parking area until 9.30am.Thankfully, Il Meteo turned out to be as unreliable as our own forecasts at home!
The toll road begins just outside Lake Misurina on a road clearly signposted Tre Cime Lavaredo.This is the name for the famous 3 rock pillars which dominate the landscape and which rise to nearly 10,000 ft. I had booked a parking space many weeks in advance to make sure of getting a place.For one car, this costs 40 euros and the process is done online.This gives 12 hours of parking but my mistake was, I should have booked us in as early as possible (any time of day or night can be the starting time`) allowing us to drive up super early on a day when rain was forecast early.Drats! You can arrive anytime after your chosen time slot but not before.As the hike meant we’d be a maximum of around 4 hours or so in the area, a 7am starting slot would have been ideal.But – it’s impossible to predict weather weeks in advance so…
If you can’t get a car parking slot, there is parking down at the toll road start and from there, a shuttle bus that regularly goes to and from the Auronzo hut where the hiking trail starts.All is not lost!
From Cortina, it was a 40 minute, superbly scenic and winding drive to Lake Misurina and the toll road.
Lots of switchbacks as we climbed higher through the forest and past meadows and some lovely smaller lakes.Misurina itself was a stunning spot.From here, we could see the Auronzo Hut car park at 7870ft and the Tre Cime rearing behind.Wow – we were going up there!
It was a beautiful start to the morning with blue skies but cloud was billowing.Access up the toll road is by number plate recognition so we swept through.There were a couple of guys on duty presumably just in case of issues.I’d kept our email confirmation of booking just in case but it wasn’t needed.
20 mins superbly scenic drive later on an excellent road and we were being directed re where to park in a VERY busy area.This made it all very orderly.Even from the car park the views were fantastic…
Got our rucksack ready (Chris was carrying for us both as we didn’t have that much, just rain gear)grabbed a loo at the Auronzo Hut and set off.
The path was so wide! It’s actually a service vehicle/one time military gravel road between the huts and this made for very comfortable walking indeed given the very steep drop off to our right.The views were truly magnificent from the off.Rifugio Auronzo is in an amazing location…
I looked longingly at another hike I’d hoped we’d get in today – Cadini Di Misurina – but the jagged peaks were already being swept by cloud coming up rapidly from the valley.In fact, I’d thought about us doing that short walk first (about 1 hr return) but the views were already disappearing.It would have needed a much earlier start to be worthwhile.
Still, walking along that big track with lots of other walkers of all ages, it was just amazing to finally be here AND in a bit of sunshine.
Gorgeous 25 min flat walk to the Lavaredo Hut where we stopped for a much needed coffee and for me, my first Apple Strudel of the trip.Lovely place with a great outside terrace in wonderful surroundings.It would be worth it just to walk to this point and back too.One complaint – they never heat the Strudel, a bit odd.Never mind, it came with a dollop of cream and was delicious.Definitely the most scenic spot I’ve ever eaten my favourite pastry!
Had a peer at a photo plan of the whole area which helped with getting our heads round the geography…the red circled hut is Rifugio Lavaredo.How amazing to get here after such a basic stroll!
Onwards and upwards to Forcella Lavaredo, the slightly higher pass or Saddle with two path options to it.
We chose the less steep, slighter longer, wider path which gave an easy gradual ascent of 20mins or so to a tiny chapel overlooking an outstanding mountain landscape below the Tre Cime.
Rifugio Lavaredo below…
Looking quite far away, was the distinctive red roof of the Locatelli hut, the next on the agenda.The paths are all well signposted with times too and it suggested another 50 mins to the rifugio.
Once again we were on a wide service road though this one dipped down and rose again, no difficulties, though I needed my poles as the gravel was a bit slithery at times but – very straightforward.Very steep ground to our left but with such a wide path, I felt very comfortable.
Way above us was the official route to Locatelli, a much narrower path which had a few people on it but didn’t look inviting to me at all.
Stopped at so many points for photos – it’s a place to savour, that’s for sure AND it was now 11am and no rain! Everything was clear, apart from the Cadini range.
Met an older chap (well, our age) just below Locatelli who insisted on taking our photographs. He took so many, almost like a professional, kneeling down, this angle, that angle.Very kind of him, slightly disconcerting as I really don’t like getting my photograph taken but it’s nice to get some images together for a change!
The views from Locatelli were just stunning.
Mount Paterno was the pyramidal, jaggy peak below which we’d been walking and which formed a backdrop to the hut.The Tre Cime sat clear directly opposite – mountain range upon range for as far as we could see.What a place.
Cloud was coming in now at 12.30 but still dry…
The hut was really busy but got a terrace table and tucked into excellent Hungarian Goulash and chips, the beef melt in the mouth.
Over the back of the rifugio are two small lakes which he had a peek at from above.
Two options at the rifugio for the return.A loop back a different way that meant a drop down and a longer re-ascent.Or go back the way we’d come.We chose the latter as I wanted a last chance to see if the Cadini might clear as photos I’d seen of the views of it from Rifugio Lavaredo were just incredible.Plus, nice to get a coffee there again.
It was cooler once we sat down but still, September, no wind at over 8,000 feet and we were fairly lightly clad.The big thick duvet jacket stuffed into the rucksack was definitely overkill, as were the gloves I’d packed.
No hardship to return on the same route, even if the path was very busy.
A last look back to Locatelli…
Cloud really started to come in now…Falzarego Pass signage on the return…complete with wrecked drone, as a warning not to take drone shots as they so often crash and litter the landscape.
and by the time we arrived at Rifugio Lavaredo, the rain had come on.Inside, the rifugio was jam packed though we managed to find a bench to sit on and have our coffees in a bit of comfort.Really nice place inside, cosy – would love an overnight here.
Very impressed with a sunset or sunrise photo of Tre Cime on the rifugio wall…
Another 25 min stroll took us back to Rifugio Auronzo where the day had begun.Luckily it had dried up again.In fact, the next two nights and most of tomorrow saw relentless rain -we were so lucky to see this tremendous area when it was, Cadini excepted, clear.
Previous Day: Rifugio Lagazuoi best of dolomites
Tomorrow: a walk in the rain around beautiful Lago di Braies…
LAGO DI BRAIES – WALKING IN THE RAIN then CINQUE TORRI PLUS RIFUGIOS AVERAU AND NUVOLAU
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