Distance:2.3 miles Ascent: 189m/620ft Time: 2hrs
It was an hour’s very scenic drive from Cortina to this famous turquoise lake in the Dolomites, very near the Austrian border. Known as Pragser Wildsee in German, my main worry was parking. We were visiting on the last day that restrictions were in place. It is quite complicated here during peak season. If you arrive at the entrance toll barrier between 9.30am – 4pm, you must either park at the toll and use a shuttle bus to the lake OR have an online parking ticket/travel through permit.
Before or after this time, you can drive to the lake but you still have to park and parking places get snapped up quickly.
There are 4 parking areas, with No 4 being 200m away from the lake and No 1 being a good 5.5km/3miles+ away. I found the online site of a private parking operator, with a space in No 3 which is only 500m from the lake. It cost 15 euros; not cheap but paying through the official area website, I was facing a 28- 40 euros charge!
However, I was still a bit paranoid about this access time restriction given we had body-swerved the local authority/park website so we set off early and arrived at the toll barrier at 9am. Sailed straight through of course but at least we had parking sorted too.
Parking was strictly directed at area 3 which I welcomed – stops the chaos. A short walk then took us to the lake itself which was absolutely gorgeous – even in the rain.
In fact, the scenery reminded me of Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies.There was an old venerable hotel at one end, overlooking crystal clear, teal coloured water, with pine and larch covering steep craggy mountains and cliffs.We couldn’t see the bulky, highest peak at the far end of the lake due to low cloud but the whole place was just beautiful.
Got a coffee and Almond Croissant in Emma’s Café, a nicely converted stables just a short way beyond the Lago di Braies hotel.We had tried to snack in the hotel itself but they were repelling everyone but residents.The hotel below – what a location…
Emma’s was quiet and we enjoyed great coffee again, smooth and creamy – Latte Macchiatos were the way to go! My Almond Croissant was quite dry with very little almond filling unfortunately; we are spoiled at home with so many artisan bakeries plus generally I think that British home- baking usually knocks that of the Continent for six.On a sunny day, Emma’s Cafe must be a glorious spot with all the little outside tables under the pines and edged with flower covered troughs. So pretty.
By 10am, it was time to head out into the mizzle, full waterproofs on, the pine forest giving us a bit of shelter.
We spent the next couple of hours strolling the excellent path round the lake shore with many places where you could to down onto tiny beaches.
A young English couple offered to take our photo…
A very easy hike until we reached the opposite side of the lake where the path did a surprising amount of climbing up hill and down dale, making us huff and puff a fair bit! This was probably the side with the prettiest views, though the whole area was a delight.
Then we were back at the flatter area which led to the boat house…
Paid another visit to Emma’s Café (there was another takeaway type café but it didn’t look as nice plus sitting outside on a coldish wet day didn’t appeal.) Cooked food looked good but we were eating out tonight and just shared a panini plus I had some of their Coffee ice cream.
I really would recommend this lake walk even on the kind of dismal day we had.It probably meant the area wasn’t quite as busy as usual; it can be over-run, I’d read. No boats out the lake either which I think made it all look wilder and more beautiful.Lago di Braies was so lovely and I would have hated to have missed it.
Dinner tonight was in Cortina at La Vizietto and it was good. I only booked it that afternoon as we drove back from the lake but was very glad I did (albeit we had to eat early at 5.30pm; it was that or 8.30pm.)They were turning so many people away on the night.
A quick turnaround back at the apartment, showers and a change of clothes and we headed back to Cortina, rain still falling.It felt cold now.
We were served a hefty Amouse Bouche of fresh Ricotta and Honey with a selection of homemade rolls.Then, a shared starter of Veal Cheeks, Red Wine sauce and Creamed Potato – very filling and rich.For mains, I had Fresh Tomato, Mushroom and Pecorino pasta while Chris had a Venison Stew with Juniper and Polenta. All very good though neither of us are polenta fans and I can’t say we changed our minds about this regional staple on the trip.
Ooft – we were absolutely stuffed by now but I ordered some Tiramisu which was nicely done with lots of alcohol – soaked sponge – to me, the key to a good version of this famous Italian dessert.
We’d been served by a lovely girl who raved about her recent visit to Edinburgh, having spotted our RBS bank card! She insisted on giving me a little sample of a light, pistachio sorbet and Chris got a hefty glass of Grappa to wash down his meal.It was so fierce, my throat was on fire. Chris loved it.Then a small plate of chocolates was laid before us, again complementary.Would definitely eat here again – plenty of tasty food in a cosy atmosphere.
Had a stroll through lovely Cortina, admiring the Dior shop which had one of the most beautiful shop fronts I’ve seen…
Beautiful decoration on many of the traditional buildings , as above.Very heavy rain and flooding forecast was until tomorrow morning.Fingers crossed my next must do mountain hike would see the weather drying up a bit!
TOMORROW: 5 Torri , Rifugios Averau and Nuvolau Hike
PREVIOUS DAYS THE BEST OF THE DOLOMITES and TRE CIME LAVAREDO AND RIFUGIO LOCATELLI HIKE CINQUE TORRI PLUS RIFUGIOS AVERAU AND NUVOLAU
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