Hawaii has long been a bucket list destination for me and in March 2026, we finally made it over there! It was a LONG way but so worth it.In fact, I feel a thrill even as I write that we actually made it happen.
We spent two weeks exploring 3 islands, flying Glasgow – Heathrow – Los Angeles – Honolulu then inter- island flights. Even from LA, Hawaii is 5.5hrs flying time away! On the map, the islands look like a handful of jewels scattered across the Pacific, completely isolated in the middle of a deep blue ocean.
Our itinerary was:
Oahu (Ilikai Hotel, Waikiki) 2 nights
Kauai (Princeville) 5 nights
The Big Island/Hawaii(Mauna Lani) 4 nights
Part day in LA (Manhattan Beach)
We are in our late 60s though my husband hit the big 70 during the trip! Both fairly fit and active, we still do a bit of wild camping at home and enjoy hillwalking and hiking though we both arrived in Hawaii as walking wounded (more on this.) I love great landscapes and photographing them and we both enjoy wildlife watching and generally being in beautiful, interesting places.
The island of Oahu
After a quiet night spent at the very pleasant H Hotel near LAX, we arrived via Hawaiian Air in Honolulu and had a short wait to get our car from Sixt (£132 for 2 days.) I had planned a Pearl Harbour visit right after this so that it wouldn’t break up our one whole day on the island which was tomorrow. That said, the site was a ‘must visit’ for us given it brought the USA into WW2 but also through a sense of paying our respects to the war dead.
Shenanigans trying to find the right way to Pearl Harbour due to my poor map downloading skills but finally we made it. Ridiculous really, as it was only 20 mins away.The tickets I’d secured ($1 each for the reservation – the site itself is free) to visit the USS Arizona Memorial gave us a 2.45pm entry but it was still only 12.15pm. Thankfully, they operate a Stand By list that you can sign up to on the day which meant that at 1pm, first boat after lunch, we were being whisked over to the Arizona.
I was surprised by how large the naval craft was that took us across on the 5 min journey; it can carry 150 people though was barely half full on our trip. In fact, the whole place was nowhere near as busy as I’d imagined.I could have saved myself a lot of angst over signing up for ticket alerts months before our visit, if I’d known we could simply go stand by on the day! But maybe we were just lucky given it was mid March (winter) and mid week?
It was a very moving visit, particularly when the boat’s Naval Officer saluted the Memorial before we were allowed to disembark.The USS Arizona is a war grave and the final resting place of 900 men.Tragically, the dead include many brothers.Even years after 1941, some naval men chose the sunken battleship as their final resting place, alongside their comrades.
It was quite difficult to clearly see the ship itself below the Memorial; it’s best seen via drone images as in the official photo below.Part of one gun turret is still visible above the waves.Oil is still leaking from the wreckage, referred to as ‘black tears,’ the on-going crying of the ship for the men lost.
It was a quiet, sobering visit, absorbing the scale of the destruction by the Japanese and the loss of life.
Once back at the visitor centre, we had a stroll along the beautifully landscaped shore area and a quick visit to the shop. On a lighter note, Chris bought a Pearl Harbour branded sun hat, as he realised he’d left his hat in the back of our car, parked at Glasgow airport!
It was now after 2pm but to our body clocks, it was midnight AND we had a drinks and dinner reservation at ‘House Without a Key’ in Waikiki this evening.Yet, we didn’t feel sleepy at all – adrenalin was keeping us going, something we often find on a first day.
Parked the car in the Discovery Bay Centre ($25 for 24hrs)pretty much opposite our condo in the Ilikai.This was a good deal at almost half the price of valet parking at the hotel.
Oh, I loved the hotel right away, with its swaying palms and lush gardens! It really was a beautiful place, very upmarket, nice neighbourhood, short walk to Waikiki beach and the apartment itself was attractive and spacious.We were on the 20th floor and given we enjoy a good balcony, it hit the spot with that too, giving us a better than expected side view of the lagoon and the ocean.Yes, we were also surrounded by other mega, high rise hotels and apartments but we knew this place would have a big city-by-the beach feel.
Unpacking, I popped the kettle on only to realise I’d forgotten to bring my decaff teabags! This was a bit of a disaster as after decades of foreign travels, we know it’s impossible to get a decent cuppa anywhere outside the UK.Chris had remembered his ‘normal’ ones thankfully, so that got us through a few days.We’re not big coffee drinkers though we enjoy a latte at some point each day. Decaff tea must sound like a complete faff but because tea is almost all I ever drink, I was advised years ago that dropping the caffeine content at least meant I was benefitting from the water in it, rather than getting dehydrated.
Got showered and changed then headed out to explore Waikiki beach, making our way gradually towards ‘House Without a Key, ’ a gorgeous restaurant within the equally lovely Halekulani Hotel.
Our overall first impressions were that Waikiki looked like a much bigger, taller and even busier version of Marbella, a hugely popular beach resort in Spain’s Andalucia which we love in the off season when it quietens down.
I was so looking forward to our meal out tonight!It also came with live Hawaiian music at 5pm then Hula in a truly delightful setting. We decided to eat here too, despite the hefty prices, as we were so taken by the whole place.
Cocktails were nice and our starters were really good; BBQ ribs for me (massive portion) and a super tasty Ahi/Tuna sushi dish for Chris.All served with an unusual pinkish bread.
I had Caesar Salad for mains which was, I have to say, a bit of a let down.Rather poorly presented and none of the fiesty flavours I associate with this dish which I often make at home.
Chris’s Pizza was ok…with it being so expensive, I suppose we expected something a bit more special than the average.
Sadly, I have to report that the three Hawaiian musicians were not very good! That said, maybe we just hit a poor night.
No swooning slack guitar, no lovely melodic songs and the singer had a really flat voice to boot.They did introduce’ Red Sails in the Sunset’ at one point and my hopes got up but somehow, they killed its very romantic melody stone dead – I hardly recognised it.One of my playlists has some favourite songs which I expected to hear or at least hear the equivalent of such as Maui Girl; My Little Grass Shack; Nohea. These were all songs used in ‘From Here to Eternity’ one of my favourite films.I have to say that after each song, the band got a light smattering of applause at most.
It was dark when we walked back to the Ilikai, using back paths which were lined with lots of smart looking shops and hotels.Waikiki is certainly a shopper’s paradise! The hotels are truly enormous, almost overwhelmingly high , very close together but the landscaping around them is beautifully done.I don’t know what it is about tall, swaying palms but I absolutely love them. They seemed particularly fabulous throughout the Hawaiian islands.
Not surprisingly, we were asleep soon after reaching the apartment!
Next Day: Hanauma Bay Marine Preserve, Snorkelling, ‘Eternity’ Beach and a drive up Oahu’s beautiful east coast.
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