This was the island that had drawn me the most to Hawaii in terms of landscape – the Na Pali cliffs looked amazing as did the north of the island.In fact, the boat trip to see the cliffs was my No 1 ‘must see’ of the whole trip – IF weather allowed.A long, long way to come if that didn’t play ball and winter certainly sounded dodgy (and it did bite us hard this trip, eventually, though not where we thought.)
Yes, I had been warned on the Kauai Tripadvisor Forum (a great Forum, SO many helpful replies) that winter on Kauai might be a washout, especially in the north of the island where I had booked accommodation so that was an extra worry (my default mindset.)
Hanalei/Pali Ke Kua/Princeville
After barely 20 mins in the air, our Hawaiian Islands flight from Honolulu (billed as 45mins) landed in Kauai’s Lihue airport .We were first in the queue at Dollar and were soon driving north. Being early for the 3pm check in at our accommodation, we headed for the small town of Hanalei, 50 mins away but near where we were staying.
What an attractive place it was!
Small, even quaint, with low rise buildings and that fantastic emerald backdrop of near 4,500 ft Mount Namolokama and neighbouring Mt Mamalahoa. And the church…what a beauty – I was so taken by many Hawaiian churches.
Lattes and a tasty strawberry muffin for me after queuing at the ever busy Hanalei Bread Company .
We generally had good coffee on the islands, to be expected given they grown their own though it was perhaps a bit strong for our taste. It was virtually impossible to get decaff however, always my choice as normal strength gives me a bit of a buzzy head.
Parked at Hanalei beach then picked up Beef Tacos at Pat’s Taqueria van which came recommended.
Devoured them on the pier surrounded by the turquoise sea and the mountains – a fine spot. Excellent they were too, spicy and filling.Cheap too – Hawaii overall is very expensive (though not Switzerland or Norway expensive.)
Picked up supplies at the Foodland supermarket in Princeville which had an interesting deli section albeit phenomenally slow service – though maybe I wasn’t yet on Hawaiian time. My queue ticket was No 85 but – groan – they were only serving No 47. Bought a big box of Chocolate Macadamia Nuts which I’d already become addicted to.I’m a chocoholic and as Hawaii grows its own cocoa beans, it produces good stuff.
With the supplies in the car and some time to spare, we took a wander round the rest of the attractive shopping area (aways so clean, no litter, pristine) and were brought to a halt by a band made up of quite elderly residents who seemed to be at the end of a performance. They had just launched into a final song, a great rendition of Elvis’s ‘A Fool Such as I’ and it was foot-tapping stuff. They were good -the best I’d heard yet!
I was now worried (my default state of mind) about our Na Pali boat trip two days away on Monday, given a deteriorating weather forecast with high winds predicted. Earlier, we had bought some Macadamia Ice cream and Mango Sorbet and chatted to a very helpful lady who was promoting various boat trips from Hanalei. She confirmed that our trip on Monday looked fine ; Tuesday was when the weather would turn (it didn’t in the north.) Interestingly an operator was running some charters from Hanalei but at well over $300 they were twice the price of what I’d paid using Makana Charters from Port Allen.
Pali Ke Kua – wow, we both loved this tasteful, beautifully landscaped development and its terrific location, sitting atop cliffs (Pali means cliff.)For us, it was unbeatable as a base.Despite my worries about Princeville being a soulless resort, it was gorgeous and quiet with wonderful ocean and mountain views; a great view of the sea is always what swings it for us. A golf course ranked by National Geographic in the top 5 globally for setting, ran down the middle of Princeville, lined by Palm trees and Cook pines(so elegant, loved these.) The backdrop everywhere was that 4,500ft emerald green, precipitous mountain chain with its cliffs and waterfalls that really make the area such a stunner.And of course, all the gardens and flowers…
We were in the unromantically named Building 2 in a ground apartment which thrilled us the minute we walked through the door.Our sitting area and terrace was fronted by lawns, gardens and palm trees with fantastic views over the Pacific.
Breakfast and evenings, we loved just sitting outside, watching the ocean, drinking in the views and watching the sun set. There were usually whales surfacing too.
The accommodation wasn’t new or modern as such but it was very comfortable and…location, location.
Ate out on our terrace, cold roast chicken and made a tomato and red onion salad plus I got quite into their Chicken Pasta Caesar salad as an add on. Gallons of tea for me while Chris enjoyed one of his favourite wines, Yellow Tail, an Australian Chardonnay at an incredibly cheap $7 a bottle (it’s around $10 at home.)This found its way to the table most nights!
1Hotel and Anini Beach
Next morning, we walked down the VERY steep tarmac path to the tiny beaches below our apartment. Had a wander along the little bits of sand, quite beautiful, not a soul around. Too rocky for easy access to swimming though.
Then a stroll down to 1 Hotel, a 5 star stunner of a place and a short walk away.
Gorgeous location with a fantastically situated café terrace where we enjoyed a latte and a blueberry muffin for me (Chris doesn’t have a sweet tooth as I do.) Loved just sitting there overlooking the bay. VERY upmarket.
View onto 1 Hotel beach from near the cafe…
It was a lovely walk to 1 Hotel and back to our apartment…
Hanalei beach itself didn’t really appeal for swimming as it appeared not to have any coral or natural shade (lots of beach umbrellas and little tents when we saw it, which takes away a bit from the appeal of a beach for me.) Instead, we drove to nearby Anini beach.
Loved it, very pretty with Palm trees, some Banyan trees and what I thought were Beach Almond trees? These latter gave great shade and were just so beautiful.
Snorkelling was not so good, very few fish though a sea turtle had been spotted. There was a whippy breeze so visibility was a bit hazy.
Ate in again, on the terrace which we’d sort of become glued to of an evening! Rain overnight (it can rain as much as it wants then.)
Tomorrow: Na Pali boat trip, Kilauea Lighthouse and beach time
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