The final day of our 10 days away in the wilds and only our second day of rain! This however, promised to be more serious rain than the showery day we had on Harris and which really hadn’t stopped us getting out and about.It was, nevertheless, nice to look forward to a mostly sedentary day driving from Ardmair to Gairloch and back through spectacular scenery and with a favourite cafe and some beach walks in store too.This drive is a small part of the North Coast 500 route. Ardmair Bay (summer pic) below:
A bit more of a leisurely start than the previous morning, enjoyed my breakfast of Nutty Granola, Yoghurt and Prunes and gallons of decaff tea.Chris sufficed with a roll and bacon; the smell from it I must admit, was great! I try to get him to eat less red meat but it tends to fall on deaf ears.
Set off at 9.15am, the windscreen wipers on immediately but somehow, everything all still looked very beautiful.Scotland often tops the list of the ‘World’s Most Beautiful Countries’ and it’s also one of the most colourful, even in winter – maybe especially so then.
It was only 1hr 25 mins and 58 miles to Gairloch, a small town on the coast with some nice beaches, reached by good, fairly fast roads.The road above Ullapool…
First stop was Corrieshalloch Gorge, only 20 min from our accommodation, a spectacular narrow cleft with raging waters rushing 200 feet below.Thankfully the rain wasn’t really very much so a wee walk was in order. The area is free entry and there is a simple cafe on site with an outdoor terrace above the (today) raging River Droma. Really quite a beautiful spot.A lovely, easy path took us down in 10 -15 mins to the mildly heart stopping suspension bridge across the gorge which tends to bounce as you cross over.Chris gave it an extra thump as I went ahead of him and which I did NOT thank him for!
The path to this point was full of interest, lots of little waterfalls with small bridges across them and occasionally the dark waters of the main river itself sweeping past.
We walked on for a further 5 mins to another viewing point over the abyss.In summer, everything is emerald green and lush with ferns and foliage, the black cliff walls dripping with water and little waterfalls.Great short stop.(Not sure why I can’t find the photos of this.)
Driving on along the A832, the road soon runs below the magnificent mountain An Teallach (The Forge) and I was really keen to get some shots of it…
Summer colours above…
The road continued to climb above Little Loch Broom, another lovely wild area with Ben Ghoblach’s steep slopes opposite.
We stopped briefly at a pull in viewpoint but a hefty shower came in, so didn’t stop for long.But we could now see the mountain we climbed yesterday, Ben Mor Coigach.
The rain was more persistent now so we decided to push on to The Gale Centre in Gairloch, a lovely cafe.The tide was also still well in at Gruinard Bay and the beaches there are best enjoyed when it’s out.We’d go down to them on our return along this same road(no other road anyway!)
Through the tiny hamlets of First and Second Coast (great names) – wonderful scenery even in the gloom – then tiny Laide(everywhere hereabouts is tiny), Aultbea and the Arctic Convoy Centre, an excellent small museum.We visited it last summer as my Uncle John was in the Convoys during the 2nd World War.The ships used to leave a few miles further along the coast; the area bustled with the military and Merchant sailors/Navy men during that time.
Past famed Inverewe Gardens , lovely in spring and summer and soon we were in Gairloch and pulling into the cafe car park, just off the A832.
I was really desperate now for a cuppa and a good bit of homemade cake! So was Chris! It was fairly quiet and we got a good table with a view out over the bay.A Latte and Toffee Cake for my better half, tea and Coffee Cake for me. Both bakes were excellent and genuinely home made.
A browse in the lovely shop next, lots of nice soaps and candles, woollens and hats, nice books – they stock the Pachamama brand too (Nepalese) which has some really good quality things.
Fortified by that wee stop, it was time for a walk along the beach so off we drove to the car park beside the golf course.Spent 20 mins wandering by the surf – there are often dolphins offshore but none today – then the rain came on again and we decided to head off on the short drive to Big Sand with the hope that by then, it would have stopped.
It did and after leaving the car on a grassy verge off the B8021, we strolled down to the lovely sands backed by dunes.Not another soul around, though in summer, the beach gets very busy with dog walkers and campers as there is a large caravan site behind the machair.It’s still a lovely area but I like quiet beaches so today, despite the chill, it was perfect.I love a beach stroll.
The views to the Torridon mountains are glorious from here, even on a grey day such as this.The cloud was clearing from the summits, though they look very dramatic too with mist swirling around the tops.
Time to head back to make sure we could fit in time for the walk down to Gruinard Bay.
The first beach ( now heading north on the A832) is easily reached from the car park but it’s not the best beach.That lies a few minutes drive up the hill where only a few parking places are available.In winter, no problem but it can be an issue in summer though fewer people know about this beach.
Got parked on the grass near the access gate and followed a very wet, boggy little track down, down through an old oak forest, steepish in places but perfectly fine.After 10-15 mins, we came to the big dune system behind the sands.
The tide was part way out and we strolled from one end of the beach to the other, enjoying the lovely location though the light was very flat and the sky a bit gloomy.Still a beautiful place however.
Uphill all the way, back to the car! Not too bad really though my legs were feeling it a bit from the day before.
Onwards to Ullapool , a quick stop to pick up some Chicken Pakora and spicy sauce from Tesco(a very lazy but tasty option) , broccoli for me and some chocolate for later.
Great to return to Ardmair Bay and our cosy, comfy accommodation.Liked it a lot and would book again.Very sorry that our trip was now at an end but what weather we’d had and what an amazing time, revisiting many much loved places and walks and feeling, as I so often do, that Scotland must be the most beautiful country in the world.
Previous Days:THE OUTER HEBRIDES – 10 DAY NOVEMBER TRIP (Days 1/2 Oban and Barra) with links to further days
Footnote: we have a terrible history of leaving things in B&Bs, here and abroad.I’ve left a laptop in Carmel(Calif) which I paid to get returned to me; left the same one in a B&B in South Africa too and had to make a huge detour to pick it up; Chris has left shirts and boots, Swiss Army Knives, charging cables.We kept our record up at Ardmair too because while sorting out the car for packing on our final morning (it was early and still dark) Chris put my hill walking boots on the lawn beside the car.Of course, neither of us noticed them as we drove off in the car, still on the grass, as it wasn’t yet light.Our hostess was superb and dropped them off a couple of days later at my son’s house and while she was driving about on business in Inverness(over 1.5 hrs away from Ardmair).For that terrific kindness, I sent her a big box of Hotel Chocolate chocs. We are so lucky that so many really lovely people run our B&Bs and cottages.
annestravelsandhikes.com 
Absolutely gorgeous photos! Thank you for sharing all of this.
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Thanks Barbara, glad you enjoyed them…it’s a stunning area! Anne
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