LOFOTEN – BUNES BEACH HIKE

Overall verdict: pleasant, easy hike to a beach with the little ferry trip across the Kirkefjord , the most stunning of all Lofoten fjords, being the most spectacular part of it.

Also – LOFOTEN HIKES – RYTEN AND KVALVIKA BEACH andLOFOTEN’S PRETTIEST VILLAGES

The photos of Bunes Beach had stunned me for many years so this was a must do hike and even better, an easy one too. It was a dry, if overcast morning after rain during the night and a few minutes drive took us from Sakrisoy to the Reine ferry. At 10am , the ticket office had just opened for bookings for the 11am sail. Very quickly, the place was packed with hikers.When we left around 10.45am, I’ve never seen such a small boat full to the gunnels with so many people! Maybe around 50 , all occupying whatever small space was available. Many were left behind, relegated to another trip. Basically, when all the tickets are sold, it sets sail.It was cold as it always is on a boat in the wind in Northern Europe , bitterly so. Hats and gloves on and I was glad of my Buffalo jacket.

Sheer mountain walls everywhere, especially Olstind. Quite a sight though forbidding and harsh too – mostly, the preserve of rock climbers.

We got off at Vinstad, a tiny place in a superb situation, very quiet after Reine, much more isolated in feel as there is no road access.

It was an hour’s easy walk to Bunes Beach. Along a track initially, then a decent path up to a low pass then a descent on whichever of myriad paths you chose to the beach.Several people were pitching camp at the pass.

Hhmm…the beach was a little underwhelming.It went back a long way, beige,  hard packed sand and enclosed on each side by the cliffy walls of mountains. Impressive mountains but not beautiful.Harsh. The whole scene lacked colour somehow,  despite the sunshine. We are very spoiled in Scotland by our wildly beautiful, dazzling shell sand, deserted Hebridean beaches backed by beautiful hills, but this strand perhaps had too much to live up to in my mind.

Found a lovely spot for lunch on the high ground above the south end of the beach beyond  a closed up cabin. The sea was a beautiful colour….deep turquoise.Gorgeous.

The coast was too precipitous to walk round very far so we explored a little further then headed back giving us an hour to kill at Vinstad before the ferry arrived. Spotted a sea eagle as we polished off some crisps. It had started to rain on and off now and felt very cold, though not much different to Scotland, despite being so much further north. Had a stroll along the shore amidst the loveliest scenery of the hike,  then caught the ferry at 3.30pm.

An excellent, easy 4 hour intro to a much lauded corner of Lofoten.

We drove down to the beautiful village of A after that and I thought the coast drive down there was wonderful.Stunning.The most majestic part of Lofoten that we explored, was from Sakrisoy to A.

Back home by 6pm and enjoyed a glass of champagne, with Chris enjoying some Spiced Rum and Tonic,  toasting a great first day.

Dill marinated herring for tea, a big favourite and very filling, minestrone soup and lots of toast.Then fruit and choccy and gallons of tea (no tea for Chris who,  as he always says, was on ‘better’ stuff – rum.You can take the man out of the Highlands……) My bottle of champers lasts me 3 days!(a bit sad I know.)