Many years ago we stayed near Lacoste in the Luberon, a beautiful, well-to-do area made famous by Peter Mayle in his book ‘A Year in Provence.’ It has glorious medieval stone villages, many of them perched and which look over well kept vineyards, wheat and lavender fields.
This time we were staying for 3 nights in Roussillon, which we hadn’t yet visited and just under a 2 hour drive away. It’s known as an ochre village due to the houses being reddish/orange, given the adjacent ochre gorge from which their stone had been quarried.
These various villages of the Vaucluse, as the department is called, had made an impression on us all those years ago – many are officially listed as France’s Most Beautiful Villages – so we were looking forward to a return visit. The motorway north was running well and not overly busy and we were soon taking the turn off we needed near Cavaillon. This took us through a quiet, rural landscape although the car temperature gauge was showing 37C! Menerbes was well signposted and we parked just a few minutes walk outside the village.I think it cost about 2 or 3 euros for 2 hours; parking was really quite cheap everywhere we went and none of it was very busy.Some of the landscape has the look of Tuscany about it with cypress trees, olive groves and vineyards.All very well kept indeed, quite immaculate.
Menerbes was, again, an absolute delight.Gorgeous! We were keen to get a café and relax after the drive and quickly found a gem of a place, Le Galoubet.I had a look inside and the aroma of freshly baked, little Plum and Almond tarts was amazing.They were lying out cooling , just out of the oven, on two trays and I knew – this was the place for our coffee!
Good coffee, sitting out on the tiny terrace with the still warm tart, buttery and rich and served with whipped cream.One of the best coffees and pastries I’ve ever had, anywhere. I do quite a lot of baking at home but I couldn’t beat these – they were the Real McCoy which is a rarity these days. Ambrosial.
Like many Luberon villages, Menerbes is a joy to stroll. Beautifully kept, flowers tumbling down the stone walls, bucolic views across the vineyards and cherry orchards below. We both love old, pretty villages and France, Spain and Italy have them in spades.
Decided to have a lightish lunch and picked an outdoor terrace table in a café/restaurant near Le Galoubet.It served excellent food too – this time, we shared their own Foie Gras (made of duck livers, not goose) served with toasted slices of bread and a fig type jam. I rarely eat pate at home but we both love Foie Gras (albeit it’s not very politically correct these days.)The creamy richness and texture is fantastic. It was served, unusually, with Roasted Fennel topped with shavings of Truffle though the latter is a taste and smell I can’t abide at all. Chris enjoyed it though.
Then we shared a very nice Raspberry Pavlova. Very pleased indeed with our lunch choices in a delightful setting.
Below is the one time jail of the village…it was built into the defensive walls of Menerbes in 1573 during the Wars of Religion.
LACOSTE
Onwards we headed to less visited Lacoste which was only a 15 min drive away.It had been , I thought, the loveliest of all the places we visited on a previous trip.It didn’t disappoint! It looks much older and less refined than Menerbes, quieter – none of which detracts from it at all.If anything it increases its loveliness.
It really is an absolutely stunning perched village of cobblestone streets, at the top of which sits the impressive ruins of the Marquis de Sade’s 11th century castle. Wide ranging views include to scree – clad Mount Ventoux.
The village is topped by the impressive walls of 11th century Lacoste Chateau, once owned by the Marquis de Sade.In all, he built 3 castles in the Vaucluse(the name for the wider area.)
It was late afternoon by now so time to stock up for the next few days.It wasn’t too long a drive to Apt, the main town of the Luberon where we found a good supermarket a short drive from Roussillon itself.The fruit in Provence (and at the coastal markets) is outstanding. Cherries and nectarines were super sweet so we bought several punnets. Wine was very cheap though I’m always encouraging Chris to pay a bit more and get some really good stuff but he is always tempted by the low prices. Most memorable, he said, was a Pinot Gris from Alsace.He was also delighted to find one of his favourites, an Australian ‘Yellow Tail’ Chardonnay which is a popular New World wine which he buys in Scotland.We also enjoyed a Freixenet Sparkling wine. Definitely a cut above cheaper Cava/Prosecco type stuff though not quite up to champagne.Oddly, we can buy very good champagne at home from Aldi or Lidl at around 14 – 16 British pounds per bottle.Not cheap but for a special occasion, very nice indeed! But in France, the lowest price for champers was around 26-30 euros.Odd!
ROUSSILLON -THE OCHRE VILLAGE
Roussillon looks very different to other Luberon villages as the buildings are coloured with the red/yellow pigment from the adjacent Ochre Quarries.From a distance the village looks picture postcard perfect, quite stunning against the green landscape.
Our accommodation was set back from the road, surrounded by pine forest and about a mile outside Roussillon itself.
This Airbnb was called ‘O Coeur des Ochres’ – the Heart of the Ochre. It comprised of an attractively decorated en suite room, with our own shaded terrace overlooking the pool and the pine-clad landscape.We had booked the trip quite late on so there were only limited places available but we were happy with our booking here.The room had a fridge, which was really handy.I’d thought the accommodation offered breakfast but I’d got it mixed up with somewhere else.I love a nice breakfast served on a sunny terrace, a relaxing start to a day.Instead, I settled for my usual quota of almonds, sunflower seeds, Greek yoghurt, a banana and gallons of tea.Chris usually just has fruit, if anything at all.
Once unpacked, we made for the lovely swimming pool, an essential amenity in the incredible heat. It’s drier heat than we have at home (not that we ever get these temperatures) so not quite so exhausting as UK humidity but still…it was a relief to plunge into the cool water.
Ate on our terrace, enjoying the usual suspects: cold meats, cheese, tomatoes, nice bread, olives and pickles.I always book somewhere with a lovely terrace or balcony as after a long day of sightseeing neither of us is often in the mood to find a decent place to eat. Watched the sun go down over the pines, the heat of the day finally subsiding.
The Sentier des Ocres (Ochre Trail)
After breakfast on the terrace,we headed out to see Roussillon itself. Parked on a street just outside the village and walked to the start of the Ochre Trail.These were the quarries which were in use from the 18th century for 200 years, with the purpose of extracting coloured pigment.This pigment can also be seen in prehistoric cave paintings confirming that its heat and sun resistant properties were known in Neolithic times if not earlier.
The trail office didn’t open till 9am and there was already a small queue.No need to book in advance though and it wasn’t expensive, 7 euros each I think with our OAP discount! We followed the 30 min route rather than the longer 1 hour option.This gave fine views of the unusual red/orange cliffs before quickly descending into woodland.Apparently, despite being warned not to go, local children used to play in the quarries (when out of use) coming back to their homes covered in bright yellow and orange dust! No washing machines in those days either – yikes! In all, the little hike was interesting but not wildly so. I’d say we spent 25 mins all in at the site.
Returning to the centre of Roussillon (5 mins walkaway) we wandered up to the Castrum, the highest point, for fine views over the beautifully kept countryside.It’s a very interesting village though not one of the prettiest in my opinion.When there are so many stunning places around, it was difficult not to compare Roussillon with the other cliff top villages we had seen or knew from previous visits.It just didn’t quite appeal in the same way, nor matched their sleepy charm.The finest view of Roussillon, I thought, was the collection of houses as a whole from across the gorge.
Abbey de Senanque and the Lavender Fields
The 12th century abbey is one of the South of France’s most iconic sights when the lavender is in bloom.It’s still run by a small group of Cistercian monks who pray seven times daily.If visiting the interior, visitors must respect the atmosphere of silence and contemplation.
I was so excited about visiting the abbey although I thought we might be a bit too early for its famous lavender fields to be in full bloom.However, even on route we drove round several corners of the road and found ourselves beside a lavender field.What a thrill!
This suggested that we would see the abbey at its best and sure enough, the sight which greeted us on the short walk from the car park was simply stunning.There is something very special about the dazzling pale limestone of the church against the neat rows of scented, purple flowers.
Sadly as it was a Sunday, we couldn’t visit the abbey’s interior.Next time. The lavender attracted delightful little yellow butterflies…
Venasque
Twenty minutes drive away lay another of the most beautiful villages in France.I can’t get enough of them.This was a first time visit and it was such an incredibly lovely place.Very quiet, pristine and with superb 12th century Saracen Towers, part of the original, medieval fortifications which loom over Venasque.
What a beauty the whole village was.We walked up past glorious old stone houses lining the little streets, flowers tumbling over balconies and walls.This led us to a charming square with a fountain (very common in these ancient places, giving the residents of older times a clean water supply) and lined with two or three cafe – restaurants and a boulangerie.
We made for Le Petit Chose, sitting out on its terrace with fine views over the lush countryside.Cafe Creme for me and a glass of beer for Chris. I also nibbled a little bit at an Almond Croissant which I’d bought in the nearby bakery.Very good it was too.
We so enjoyed being in Venasque that we stayed for lunch.The terrace – which had been almost empty – began to fill up as noon approached.It looked like we had made a good choice!
However, we mis-read the menu (the lamb stew had most appealed) only to find that it was only on offer in the evening. Drats! Ah well…beef steak all round instead which tasted better than it perhaps looks in the photo.Simple fare.Nice people serving, good atmosphere.
Had a wander up to the top of the village where the stunning remains of the fortifications were baking in the hot sun.I have to say that for sheer wow factor, this structure with its grandiose towers beat what we had seen in Menerbes and Lacoste.
Wandering down a side street back to the tiny main square, I noticed a Michelin recommended restaurant which was going like a fair.Next time! This is a village I would certainly want to re-visit for it’s peaceful, uncrowded beauty.
We both enjoy old churches and the Eglise Notre Dame de Venasque was fascinating too.The Baptistry is one of the oldest in the region and was most likely a pagan temple in the 6th century.Some of the stone used in its rebuilding is from Roman times. It certainly had a particularly ancient feel about it, this church.
ORANGE AND THE BEST PRESERVED ROMAN THEATRE IN EUROPE
The heat was ferocious by now with the car registering 47C! However, energy levels were high and given where we now were, this was the best day to head for the town of Orange, 35 mins drive away. Ancient sites always appeal and Orange offered one of the most complete Roman Theatres anywhere. Built in the 1st century AD, it is described as one of the ‘jewels of Imperial Rome’ and is now a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Parking was easy in the well signposted underground car park and quite cheap too – only a few euros.The town itself and the roads into it, were very quiet, most likely because in southern Europe, everything shuts down from mid-day until 5pm or so.
It was a short walk to the astounding exterior walls of the Roman Theatre and we had to crane our necks to see their top.At over 120ft high and 338ft long, they present a truly enormous facade in Orange’s main square.Louis XIV called it the most beautiful wall in France and this opinion was held by Napoleon himself, after taking the city.
What is also special compared to other Roman Theatres is, it still has some of the original statuary.
I thought the whole place was an absolute wow. We spent about an hour in baking heat, walking up to the top of the seating area and just admiring it from all angles.Performances are still held here which must be stunning to see and hear.
There was a small museum opposite the theatre which held many recovered stone decoration which once adorned the original performance space.
It was late afternoon now and I was beginning to feel slightly light headed from wandering about in the relentless temperatures. It must have been low 40Cs in the amphitheatre with the addition of furnace-like heat bouncing off the surrounding stone surfaces.Very easy to understand how being out in such heat for any length of time actually becomes dangerous to life. Sadly there were many tragic cases over the next few days of children being left in cars and forgotten about which, being so young, was unsurvivable.
Cafes usually stay open all day and there was a nice one with a terrace shaded by Plane trees (another iconic tree of France)allowing us to quench our thirst. Beer for Chris and a sparking water for me.Orange looked an attractive place with its colourful pastel buildings.
It was time to head back to our room and a much needed dip in the pool.We had fancied eating out in a Michelin recommended restaurant in Roussillon but on calling in earlier, they had been very unwelcoming so we decided not to spend our money there! In fact, we really enjoyed our little shaded terrace overlooking the pool and it was no hardship to eat there again.Picked up wine, cold chicken, a fresh baguette, olives, tomatoes and fruit in the supermarket in Apt.
Our second last day dawned tomorrow.
Next day: Gordes, Fontaine de Vaucluse and a very surprising little church at St Pantaleon village.
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