MUST VISIT VILLAGES IN THE LUBERON

Gordes

The priority for our last full day in the Luberon was the beautiful village of Gordes, another of France’s prettiest. So many of these! Yet for us , in modern parlance, exploring them ‘never grows old.’ The best view of Gordes’ honey stone buildings tumbling down the hillside is from the approach road from Roussillon.There is free parking at a large pull in which allows a wander to several viewpoints from the top of the cliffs.If only today’s town planing and building could achieve such pleasing results!

We left the car in one of the car parks just outside the village and walked 5 mins or so up to the main square.This space was quite busy with traffic but it impressed given its domination by the walls of a 1,000 year old castle.

I’d read that there wasn’t much to see inside so we didn’t pay to enter.A coffee in a nice café was now top of the agenda.Initially I’d been very tempted by a smart Laduree cafe overlooking the square, particularly given that I love macaroons.However, we wandered round the back of the castle to a quiet, pedestrianised spot opposite a small fountain and which was more attractive.

Good creamy coffees as usual and a nice Pain au Chocolat. Fuelled by that, now the explore could begin!

St Firmin Church

There was a helpfully signposted walking route round Gordes and first stop was the delightful, relatively ‘new’ 18th century Saint Firmin church.There was a shell carved on the exterior wall, a sign that this was a pilgrim’s route to St Jacques in Spain.

It was a gem inside – very colourful with some restored murals. In fact, I was really quite bowled over by it! Tears welled a little as we admired it all. Partly that was just the sudden awareness of feeling so lucky to be able to enjoy all these beautiful places.But beauty often has that effect on me.I’ve shed quiet tears looking at a favourite Van Gogh painting, to walking along the dazzling white shell-sands of an Outer Hebridean beach.

We followed little cobbled streets with views over the gentle Luberon countryside, the sun beating down on us like a furnace whenever we emerged from shade.It didn’t take long to go round the little route – maybe 25 mins in all.

Gordes does get busy but we found it to be well worth the visit.There is a good reason some places draw the crowds though we were fortunate that we got there before the tour buses.Definitely a village I would visit again.

Fontaine de Vaucluse

We nearly gave this little village at the edge of the mountains a miss.What a loss that would have been! It sits by the source of the River Sorgue which emerges from the impressive limestone cliffs that are a backdrop to the village.It’s said that all the water from the Luberon and other mountains originate from this one place.

Coming from a country with endless water sources, rivers and waterfalls I wasn’t sure if it was worth our time but it was a stunningly beautiful spot. The river itself tumbled wildly over rocks before it became a more gentle, meandering stretch of crystal clear, emerald green water. I’ve never seen a river that striking colour before. The brilliant jade colour came from underwater vegetation.

Unfortunately, unstable rocks meant that viewing the source of the spring itself was not possible. Nevertheless, we walked upstream and on both sides anyway as the whole area was so attractive with a paved path.

Below, the main square…

The area is very wooded so it also offered a lot of shade and the temperature as ever was climbing high. There was also a definite freshening of the air from the Sorgue itself. I dipped my feet in at one point and it was glacial cold! Lovely!(lovelier without my feet in the shot but never mind:))

Over a small bridge, the 17th century villa Maison de la Rose lived up to its name with a gorgeous rose garden which was open for strolling in.

A small castle on an steep crag looked down over all.

The Église Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Véran, was another simple 11th century church in my favourite Romanesque style. Again, it had been built over a much older pagan temple.

Lunch beckoned but getting a seat with a river view proved impossible.We should have booked ahead or perhaps on arrival.No matter, we eventually found Phillipe’s Cafe which sits outside the more upmarket restaurant of the same name. I think the heat had robbed us of any real appetite so we shared a huge Coupe Glacé with Strawberries and Chantilly cream.It was delicious!

Our table was also right beside the meandering Sorgue, a truly delightful spot.If we re-visit – and it would be worth that especially if the source of the spring is open again – the restaurant looked to be a fine place to eat.

St Pantaleon Church

Driving back to Roussillon, one last tiny church appealed. It sat by a quiet road in the tiny village of Saint Pantaleon, the smallest commune in the Luberon. It was a silent, flower filled, beautiful place.

We walked from the small car park to this exquisite 11th century church having picked up the keys to it from the smallest city hall I’ve ever seen.

The main square of the village had an attractive bistro…

The church was very simple inside although there were the remains of colourful frescoes.These ancient churches must have looked quite splendid in their day, albeit there is also something very pleasing about the undecorated golden stone.

Outside lay strange stone tombs, carved out of the bedrock with burials dated to 1,000 years ago. Neolithic remains have also been found hereabouts.

At one point I spotted what I think was a Shrike, known as the Butcher Bird as it impales its prey on thorns or barbed wire, like a mini meat market on show.

A hugely interesting visit to somewhere quite off the beaten track.

After such a long, hot day of excellent sightseeing, boring pair that we are, we wanted nothing more than to eat out on our shaded terrace and have a cooling swim.

Tomorrow, we would be returning to Marseilles/Marignane airport and our 2 hour flight home to Edinburgh.

SANARY SUR MER

What to do with our last day, given our flight was late in the afternoon? I’d suggested Marseilles itself and the superb sounding Cosquer Cave Museum which is a replica of an underwater sea cave discovered off Marseilles.It’s decorated with engravings and paintings dated to 30,000 years ago. However, Chris’s suggestion of simply heading for the coast on this broiling hot day won out however as he was not overly keen at negotiating the city’s traffic.Another next time place to visit!

Two hours later, we arrived at Sanary-sur-Mer, another small coastal town which I’d always fancied visiting. Got parked easily in an underground facility that was quite cheap and walked down one of the very upmarket shopping streets. It was around 12noon and places were beginning to close for the afternoon siesta.

As we finally reached the harbour front, I was taken aback how elegant and lovely it was.Wow! It was delightful!

I say that having visited some beautiful Mediterranean seaside towns.We headed round to the harbour itself, enjoying a stroll in such perfect surroundings.It seemed a little more sedate and refined than Cassis (not to take away from that buzzy, bustling place at all.) Vive la difference!

We were hungry now and there was a particularly comfy looking cafe with a nice outlook onto the marina.

Tasty lunch it was too with a Beef Steak Salad for Chris and a Chicken Salad for me.Unusually, the chicken was breadcrumbed and fried but I enjoyed it very much, along with excellent chips. Using a good old Glaswegian phrase, we were ‘well stuffed’ after that.

I’d spied another outlet of our favourite gelateria – Amorino – so after settling the bill, off we went for (no contest) Black Cherries and Cream ice cream.

We had time to have a look inside the town’s church, St Nazaire, founded in 1570. It was a blaze of colour with modern frescoes.That seemed to very much suit the colourful town itself with its bright, warm Mediterranean light and sunshine.

There was also a Stations of the Cross walking route through Sanary sur Mer, marked by painted stones…

And then it was time to retrieve the car and get ourselves over to the airport for our tea time flight.

I had worried that our short trip would just be TOO short, would feel rushed and couldn’t possibly give us enough time to really enjoy re-discovering this part of the South of France. As with many things in life, I was wrong!

There is something absolutely joyful about this slightly quieter part of the French Riviera.Certainly compared to stunning St Tropez to Menton stretch which I tend to class as the Cote d’Azur proper.That said, we are booked for another 6 day trip to that latter area in September, an area we know well and love but haven’t visited now for perhaps 7 or 8 years. It will be interesting to compare the two, especially as there are exquisite medieval villages inland from the glitzy resort towns which are already on my ‘must visit’ list.

But Cassis, the Luberon villages and nearby sights, plus Sanary sur Mer, have been a joy.We will be back!

Previous days: LAVENDER FIELDS AND THE ANCIENT VILLAGES OF THE LUBERON and CASSIS AND PROVENCE/LUBERON – A WHIRLWIND VISIT TO THE GORGEOUS SOUTH OF FRANCE